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Areas in Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing

Reed Lakes Bouldering 3 / 2 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 7
Barnyard, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Birds of Prey 4 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Crack Garden, The 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 16
Dermatologist's Dream Wall 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Falcon Slab/Zydeco Wall 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Fatal Attraction Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
High Dive, The 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Inferno wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mile High Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Monkey Face 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Pulp Culture Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Reed Creek Wall 5 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone 7 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Spradlin spire 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1

Description

See Archangel Valley

Getting There

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer, a small town to pass through. Follow the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to Reed River up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp left turn up the switch back, head up the hill for a few hundred yards. Take the sharp right up a single gravel road, And see the sign Archangel Rd. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. Reed Lakes is on the right side, about 3 miles from where Archangel Road starts. The trail to Reed Lakes is meanders for 1.75-2 miles to the abandoned cabin. This is where the climbing and bouldering starts. Most of the established climbing is in the basin surrounding the abandoned cabin. The Reed Lakes are actually beyond this, accessible by two different trails starting at this point.

75 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Titanic
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Born to be Mild
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Caustic Community Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Snowflake
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
The Vertical Gardener
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
The Apology Foot Rub
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Tritonian Yeti Physics
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Down & Dirty Dihedral
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Pulp Culture
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Hashtag Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Rise
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Birds of Prey
Trad, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Brazilian Sex Wax
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Thin As Ice
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Escape From the lemming Ranch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Titanic Reed Lakes Bou… > Lower Reed Vall… > Nugget Boulder
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Born to be Mild SnowBird Slab/Corners…
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Caustic Community Crack Crack Garden > Crack Garden
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Snowflake SnowBird Slab/Corners…
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Vertical Gardener Crack Garden > Crack Garden
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
The Apology Foot Rub Crack Garden > Crack Garden
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Tritonian Yeti Physics Crack Garden > Crack Garden
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Down & Dirty Dihedral Crack Garden > Hanging Garden
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Pulp Culture Pulp Culture Wall
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Hashtag Crack Birds of Prey
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Rise High Dive
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Birds of Prey Birds of Prey
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
Brazilian Sex Wax Birds of Prey
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Thin As Ice SnowBird Slab/Corners…
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Escape From the lemming Ranch Inferno wall
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing »

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