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Routes in The Crack Garden

Accidental Corking T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apology Foot Rub, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caustic Community Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chickenheads on a Chopping Board T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gateway Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoked Bluffs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tritonian Yeti Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turf War T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertical Gardener, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 115 ft
FA: Galen Vansant & Kiersten Johnson
Page Views: 741 total, 43/month
Shared By: Terramariner on Jul 14, 2016
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Jam and layback up the inset corner to the large flake. Slab your way right and up to the hand crack. Enjoy climbing hands with just enough flare to keep it interesting. From the top of the crack you can head left or right to any of the 3 anchor stations.

Location

Start in the shallow inset corner just left of the crisscrossing cracks in the middle of the face.

Protection

Single Rack (doubles in .5 and .75 is nice)
2 Bolt Anchor

Photos

Mat Brunton  
 
Classic Alaskan commentary; can't be beat.

This route is fun with good rock. Thanks for the work cleaning it, and it will only improve with more climbing.

Definitely worthwhile.

Exiting the hand crack left to a lower anchor on the main rock wall makes for an easier exit than dealing with the upper anchor over the grass ledge from that low angle slab crack. Jul 23, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
You actually have to climb the blue route... and my name is intestine... Jul 22, 2016
I believe the real problem is not PS, but mixing PS and stainless. fixehardware.com/shop/mixin… Jul 22, 2016
I guess after 20+ years of placing and clipping bolts in the Talkeetnas, I'm pretty clueless. Maybe I should get myself one of those Junior Ranger bolt sheriff badges you're so proud of.
Where did you get that anyway? Are they still giving them out at the ARG when you send the pink route? Maybe when you volunteer to be a mountain project "administrator" you are elevated to a higher plane of knowledge and duly awarded? Or did you get yours from a Cracker Jack box?
Was Garvey confused when he drilled the anchor on Slab Trek P1? 1/4 non STAINLESS!!!! The horror!!!

Are you, Lung, going to charge out and "fix" this route for us? Or just sit around the nice safe rock gym proselytizing and trying to impress some clueless beaters? Jul 22, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Go check out the rusty bolts on freedom roof. Andy. 45 years? Ha! You're really confused by this whole bolting thing, aren't you? Jul 21, 2016
Fun route. The crack felt Maybe 5.7. Finished straight up the slab to the anchor. The last move up the slab felt like 5.8 maybe. I'm not good with grades though.
The ASCA bolt police are going to have a fit.... The anchor isn't STAINLESS!!! Oh nooooooo!!!! Someone is going to die! In 45 years. Maybe. If they load up the anchor with elephants.
Thanks for the scrub job. Jul 20, 2016