Elevation: 3,177 ft
GPS: 61.815, -149.243 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,681 total · 76/month
Shared By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008 with updates from coldclimb
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).

Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.

It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.

Getting There

Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond

12 Total Climbs

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Location: The Diamond Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Diamond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Ruby Shoes
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Tik Tok
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 46
Toto
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 9
Festoon
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Toto to the Pinnacle link up
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ruby Shoes
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tik Tok
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Toto
 46
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Festoon
 9
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Toto to the Pinnacle link up
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Diamond »

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Photos

Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day. Jun 29, 2013