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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).

Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.

It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.

Getting There

Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Diamond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day. Jun 29, 2013

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