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Routes in The High Dive

2 Left Shoes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Choke the Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coitus Interuptus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double D(ihedral) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killing Aphrodite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sprinklers Save Lives T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wanchors Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Borland, Tracy Borland, Kelsey Gray, Dane Ketner - Aug 20, 2009
Page Views: 1,299 total, 14/month
Shared By: coldclimb on Jun 18, 2010
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb a pitch of moderate slab with spacey pro to a crazy needle of granite standing on end. Two-bolt anchor is just to the right.
P2: Follow the slab to the right along the base of the steep headwall to an obvious crack system that will take you to the top.
UPDATE: As of 7-9-14 step right to a two-bolt anchor just below the P3 crack.
P3: Head up the crack system. About 20 feet off the slab it splits into two nice hand cracks. Follow it to a mouth-like ledge overlooking the incredible scenery. Belay here on two bolts if you'd like, or climb the next sixty feet or so to the topout.
P3.5: Climb out the left side of the mouth (Or straight out the top if you're a beast) and find a two-bolt anchor directly above the route.
Descent: Walkoff or rappel. The route can be rappelled with one 60m rope.

Location

Head to the high dive and find a slab at the left edge of the huge roof. Start there. Either walk off or rappel the route, which can be done with one 60m rope.

Protection

Pro to three inches.
Two-bolt anchors atop each pitch.
Mat Brunton
  5.9
Mat Brunton  
  5.9
This climb is GOOD! Link pitches one and two for full value (use extended draws on all pro). This can be done easily with a 70m rope, and is possible (but cutting it close) with a 60m. To reiterate, watch out for numerous loose flakes and blocks on pitches one and two. Some of these potentially unstable sections of rock are LARGE, including the "crazy needle of granite standing on end." Be mindful of this when using your hands and feet, and placing pro. Pro spacing isn't bad on pitches one and two, especially for the grade, and is even more plentiful with a bit of excavation. The pitch three crack is $. Can be climbed with or without jamming, as the rock is very featured. Taping up isn't necessary, neither are the 4" cams as mentioned in the guidebook. However, some doubles up to 3-3.5" are nice especially if linking pitches one and two. Pro can be "leap frogged" easily up the pitch three crack. Pitch three accepts pro very well and you can really sew it up, if you're so inclined. The lower 2/3 of the crack takes larger pro in the right crack and medium pro in the left crack. The upper right crack takes smaller pro. The final "mini" pitch doesn't seem worth it, unless you're walking off. Aug 9, 2015
Top of the first pitch has some nice time-bomb flakes to stem around if you are smart. Wouldn't put gear in the giant levitating flake that is at the top of the pitch. Scary.... Third pitch position is great. Rock quality is killer. Thanks for the anchors. Jul 25, 2015
coldclimb
Wasilla, AK
 
coldclimb   Wasilla, AK
 
Just an update, this route now has two-bolt anchors at each belay, so there's no need to build and climb through an anchor on the third pitch anymore. Jul 11, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.9-
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.9-
Great third pitch! pitch one has potential. Thanks to John for adding the anchor below the third pitch. Skip the last mini "pitch" Aug 1, 2013