Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 61.84442, -149.16129
FA: Todd Fisher, Mat Brunton
Page Views: 1,168 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Aug 8, 2017 · Updates
Admins: L Von Dommelheimer

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Description Suggest change

This route goes pretty much straight up very high grade Hatcher granite for ~280' through two distinct dihedrals.

P1 (5.10+, ~55m): To start Double D climb Sprinklers Save Lives to the anchor and belay, or skip anchor and trend left to a black streak with a crack that eventually disappears. Continue past 2 bolts and enter the dihedral proper. Belaying from the top of SSL when leading up to the dihedral may keep you from hitting the featured sloping ledge if you whip at the crux. Follow the dihedral up and move left after a mini roof/bulge near the top to a nice ledge with anchor.

P2 (5.10-, ~30m): Move up and right off the anchor ledge to short cracks leading a small ledge at the base of the upper dihedral. Climb the dihedral with small gear pulling left over the top to a big ledge. Move right and up from this ledge (with a lot of air underneath your feet). After this flake to short corner-crack section, you'll follow a couple bolts and gear up featured slab to an anchor on a large ledge.

Location Suggest change

To the right of large roof system that is right of Rise, and just left of Coitus on a section of very nice granite.  Use Sprinklers Save Lives to access.

Protection Suggest change

2 bolt anchors with rings. Route is setup for rappelling on a single 60m using the anchor for 2 Left Shoes and Sprinklers Save Lives to get to the ground.

P1: 1 bolt (above crack that is left of anchor for Sprinklers Save Lives), gear to 3"

P2: 2 bolts, gear to 3"

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