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Major Wall
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Banana Peel S 
Bananas on Acid S 
Bats out of Hell S 
Bon Bon T 
Buttress Fly S 
Cactus Practice S 
Captain Blueberry S 
Chris's Route (name will change) S 
Demon, The S 
Devil's Plaything S 
Hurt Me Not S 
Juckets & Bugs S 
Liberace's Anus S 
Limp Traddy S 
Major Chingadera S 
Major Major S 
Major Raspberry S 
Milo Mindblender S 
Pimp Caddy S 
Pimp Daddy S 
Pinche Wey S 
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She Can Bolt S 
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 

Devil's Plaything 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: LeeAB on Feb 26, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing the location of Devil's Plaything

Description 

Filling in the obvious blank section between the Demon and Major Raspberry.

Amble up the juggy scoops to the third bolt. Get comfortable in the highest scoop for a quick rest. Once you leave the scoop a hard and footwork dependent boulder problem takes you up to the angling arete above and the 4th bolt. From here you could mantle over right and finish at the mid anchor on Major Raspberry or better, continue up the angling arete past another bolt and finish at the Demon anchor.

Location 

Starts on obvious large jugs and huecos just up from the end of the ramp on the left half of the wall.

Between the Demon and Major Raspberry.

Protection 

5 new bolts plus the last one on the Demon to the chain anchor of that route.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 26, 2012

Really not sure of the grade on this, the nature of the climbing is hard to grade. Pretty sure it is in the .13 range but it could be anything really, from A to D, well probably not the upper end.

Would like for others to get on it and let me know what they think.
By KJP
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Fun route, just a bit harder then The Demon, but not quite as good. 2 bolts of 5.9 to a 6 or 7 move low percentage v7ish boulder to more easy terrain to the top.