Crux is after the second bolt. Fun moves through some crimps and sidepulls. Be careful though, a fall clipping the second bolt could be a fall to the ledge.
Left side of the Red Wall. 3rd? bolt line. The route usually seems to have a good bit of chalk on the holds.
3 bolts to anchor that is shared with Silence the Critics.
Desperately Seeking Juggage(5.11)
BETA PHOTO: sketchy from 1st to 2nd bolt watch ledge
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Jan 13, 2013
Short and straight to the business. Thin climbing all the way up the 30 feet. The crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt but the mental crux is the stretch up to the 3rd. Make sure your belay has a close eye on you, because a fall on this upper section could lead to a rough encounter with the ledge below. Soft for the grade I think but very fun!
|By Henry Robinson|
From: Columbia, SC
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Barely missed the onsight. I went right after the third bolt, and found no holds. There were holds left, traversing into the adjacent route, Silence the Critics. I felt like going left to the holds on Silence the Critics was off route, but the rock face was barren directly above and to the right of the last bolt. Anyone know the beta? Is traversing left onto Silence the Critics considered on route?
|By Eduardo Ramirez|
From: Columbia, SC
Aug 3, 2013
I too feel that bailing left onto Desperately Seeking Juggage is off route. The namesake truly fits this route after the third bolt. The only beta I've found is to reach up and right onto a rigth hand sidepull that allows one to reach the ledge above the old anchor.
|By Tim Fry|
From: Charlotte NC
Nov 7, 2013
Would also appreciate some guidance on how the route is supposed to go for the 11b grade. I attempted going out right after the last bolt, based on the comments. But that side pull did NOT feel 11b! It's a stretchy, hard move that way, and I couldn't make it. Maybe I'm weak. Yet going a few feet left from the last bolt felt 10ish. What is the intent of this route? Right after the final bolt, or any way it climbs?
From: Charlotte, NC
Nov 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I personally feel like the crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt and depending on conditions is plenty hard for 11b. I go left around the last bolt and the only thing I use that is shared with silence is maybe the large foot ledge.
From my beta notes: At the last bolt I got my right hand onto a small crimper, left foot up onto the good ledge hold and left hand up onto a nice angled crimper. Rock on and right hand lockoff to reach a good hold with my left hand up and left. Move right hand up onto another good hold and work feet up. Then left hand to furthest right part of the ok ledge hold and then reach over to the right to clip or go straight up to the jugs.
It's my understanding that on silence you use that same large foot ledge as a foot but your hands are more to the left.