Desperately Seeking Juggage 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Scotty Greenway, Monica Browne |
| Submitted By: | Chris Whisenhunt on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Red Wall
Steve Lineberry redpoints
Desperately Se...
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Description Crux is after the second bolt. Fun moves through some crimps and sidepulls. Be careful though, a fall clipping the second bolt could be a fall to the ledge.
Location Left side of the Red Wall. 3rd? bolt line. The route usually seems to have a good bit of chalk on the holds.
Protection 3 bolts to anchor that is shared with Silence the Critics.
Red Wall
Desperately Seeking Juggage(5.11)
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BETA PHOTO: sketchy from 1st to 2nd bolt watch ledge
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| Comments on Desperately Seeking Juggage |
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By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 13, 2013
| Short and straight to the business. Thin climbing all the way up the 30 feet. The crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt but the mental crux is the stretch up to the 3rd. Make sure your belay has a close eye on you, because a fall on this upper section could lead to a rough encounter with the ledge below. Soft for the grade I think but very fun! |
By Henry Robinson
From: Columbia, SC
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b
| Barely missed the onsight. I went right after the third bolt, and found no holds. There were holds left, traversing into the adjacent route, Silence the Critics. I felt like going left to the holds on Silence the Critics was off route, but the rock face was barren directly above and to the right of the last bolt. Anyone know the beta? Is traversing left onto Silence the Critics considered on route? |
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