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Routes in Red Wall

TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
911 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arborist, The T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Axis (Bold as Love) T,S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Basic Training T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Wolf T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desperately Seeking Juggage S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fashion Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fight The Fear On Micro Gear T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gimp, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jumping Junipers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kitty Litter T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master Beta S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mellow Fellow T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Hidden Gem T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Opinionated S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Razor's Edge (or the Butter Knife) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Red Wine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Wall Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Scramble My Feedback T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SeamStress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silence The Critics S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Spring Break T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Spring Fever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fling T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Swing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
TKO S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Target Practice T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tom Tom Club T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Welcome to Crowders S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: Wade Parker, Brade Hoover
Page Views: 1,221 total, 16/month
Shared By: Wade Parker on Jul 18, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

A bouldery start leads to stellar face climbing up high. Original route moves slightly right after the first bolt, then back to the left along the small ledge. Straight up from the 2nd bolt.

Protection

Originally put up as a mixed line, 4 Bolts with gear to new stainless anchors. Pro from .5 to 1.5" can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolts and the 3rd and 4th bolts. The 4 bolts will be replaced soon. (1/11/14 Wade)

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Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
You can get one solid piece after the first bolt before manteling on to the ledge and then another piece in a pocket, but I'm not sure how solid the rock is for that pocket. Either way, I'm cool with where the bolts are. The boulder start is really fun and the climbing up top is nice. Jan 28, 2015
Wade Parker
Clover SC
 
Wade Parker   Clover SC
 
We replaced the anchors in late November 2013. Thanks to Tim Fisher for donating the two fixe rings and stainless bolts! The 4 bolts on the route will be replaced soon with glue in's. Whether or not the 2nd and 3rd bolts will be moved down slightly is up for debate and a greater conversation for the powers at be. I am open to moving them if the community and admins feel strongly about it. If they are moved, it will make the gear between the 3rd and 4th bolts a must.

Enjoy!

Wade Jan 11, 2014
Wade Parker
Clover SC
 
Wade Parker   Clover SC
 
FA. Wade Parker and Brade Hoover. This is a mixed line and it isn't recommended as a sport only route. It is a fantastic, well protected line if you take .5 to 1.5" gear (placements can be found between the 1st-2nd bolts, then the 3rd-4th bolts). A bouldery start with a nice face up high makes for an exciting send.

The reason the second bolt is placed so high, is to keep you off of the ledge while clipping the third bolt. Place gear at knee level on the ledge to protect clipping the 2nd bolt.

I will get the anchors replaced as soon.

Enjoy

Wade Aug 22, 2012
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
FA belongs to Wade Parker I believe. Aug 26, 2011
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.10c/d
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.10c/d
Great route with boulder problem start, wish it got more attention and the second bolt was placed better. Crux is right off the ground and easy to deck after first bolt. Jul 30, 2011