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Routes in Red Wall

TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
911 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arborist, The T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Axis (Bold as Love) T,S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Basic Training T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Wolf T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desperately Seeking Juggage S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fashion Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fight The Fear On Micro Gear T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gimp, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jumping Junipers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kitty Litter T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master Beta S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mellow Fellow T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Hidden Gem T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Opinionated S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Razor's Edge (or the Butter Knife) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Red Wine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Wall Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Scramble My Feedback T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SeamStress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silence The Critics S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Spring Break T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Spring Fever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fling T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Swing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
TKO S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Target Practice T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tom Tom Club T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Welcome to Crowders S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Hans Schuler
Page Views: 5,050 total, 42/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A balancy, slabby start soon turns to steep crimping as you yard up this amazing sport climb. Long(for Crowders) and sustained. Hope you had your Red Bull!

Location

Look for a bolt line to the left of a large depression in the upper part of the middle of the wall.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors w/ rings
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.9
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.9
this climb is fairly sustained, no doubt. Get your endurance on!

There are two unique ways to climb the initial 20' 1). up the chalked up leaning pillar. ~5.8 territory with very cool holds (as a reference, this line is left of initial two bolts); 2). climb the dihedral to the right of the initial two bolts which feels a lot closer to 10a.

Edit: 12/08/2014 (beta spoiling warning!)
From bolt #2 to #3 is protectable. We used a pink tricam in the small horizontal that is visible from the ground between #2 and #3 bolt. Solid placement but not immediately obvious. This same seam will also take a red and brown tricam (we have placed all of them in different sections of that seam). There are plenty of additional placements throughout the climb --- keep in mind this line was intended as a mixed bolt/gear line.

There are a lot of solid 5.9 moves on this climb assuming that you stay on the arete. Pretty relentless once it starts. And the most strenuous part is friggin anchoring at the top. May 5, 2014
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
 
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
 
I got a .4 C4 to fit in the horizontal between bolts 2 & 3 Mar 10, 2013
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
The runout between bolts 2 and 3 can be mitigated with a yellow C3 placement in the flaring horizontal at a good stance. A fall while making the move to clip the third bolt would place you in groundfall territory. This has been the site of more than one bone-breaking fall. I agree with Chris, climbing in the dihedral to the right of the first two bolts bumps this up into 5.10 territory. To keep it 5.9 climb the large flake to the left of the first two bolts. Feb 12, 2013
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.10a
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.10a
At the start of the climb the open book to the right of the bolts is funky and feels to me like it deserves a 10, the line to the left of the bolts at the start I could see a 9 for the route. Oct 20, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
This route is funky climbing and clipping. The first two bolt placements can be hard to clip, as they are far away from the left side natural line, but the location makes sense since it is on the cleanest part of the rock. The move after the second bolt can be protected with a #2 C3. Whats up with the extra bolt just next to the anchors? The stance for the anchor clip sucks. Jun 9, 2009
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
It is my "opinion" the anchors should be moved a few more feet up to the ledge. Sep 16, 2008
cdg
cdg  
FA by Hans Schuler, 2000. May 5, 2008