Opinionated

FA by Hans Schuler, 2000. May 5, 2008

It is my "opinion" the anchors should be moved a few more feet up to the ledge. Sep 16, 2008

This route is funky climbing and clipping. The first two bolt placements can be hard to clip, as they are far away from the left side natural line, but the location makes sense since it is on the cleanest part of the rock. The move after the second bolt can be protected with a #2 C3. Whats up with the extra bolt just next to the anchors? The stance for the anchor clip sucks. Jun 9, 2009

At the start of the climb the open book to the right of the bolts is funky and feels to me like it deserves a 10, the line to the left of the bolts at the start I could see a 9 for the route. Oct 20, 2012

The runout between bolts 2 and 3 can be mitigated with a yellow C3 placement in the flaring horizontal at a good stance. A fall while making the move to clip the third bolt would place you in groundfall territory. This has been the site of more than one bone-breaking fall. I agree with Chris, climbing in the dihedral to the right of the first two bolts bumps this up into 5.10 territory. To keep it 5.9 climb the large flake to the left of the first two bolts. Feb 12, 2013

I got a .4 C4 to fit in the horizontal between bolts 2 & 3 Mar 10, 2013

this climb is fairly sustained, no doubt. Get your endurance on!

There are two unique ways to climb the initial 20' 1). up the chalked up leaning pillar. ~5.8 territory with very cool holds (as a reference, this line is left of initial two bolts); 2). climb the dihedral to the right of the initial two bolts which feels a lot closer to 10a.

Edit: 12/08/2014 (beta spoiling warning!)
From bolt #2 to #3 is protectable. We used a pink tricam in the small horizontal that is visible from the ground between #2 and #3 bolt. Solid placement but not immediately obvious. This same seam will also take a red and brown tricam (we have placed all of them in different sections of that seam). There are plenty of additional placements throughout the climb --- keep in mind this line was intended as a mixed bolt/gear line.

There are a lot of solid 5.9 moves on this climb assuming that you stay on the arete. Pretty relentless once it starts. And the most strenuous part is friggin anchoring at the top. May 5, 2014

Bolts and anchors replaced with stainless as of 12/11/17. Anchors moved up slightly to the ledge and much better position. Dec 16, 2017

Yep, saw the new bolts today. Got to the anchor and was like "what the hell, I don't remember this ledge". Dec 22, 2017