Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Diab Rabie (1996)
Page Views: 2,291 total · 23/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

6 bolts to a set of cold shuts. Crux is at the fourth bolt. Traverse left after the crux to a set of shuts. There is a third bolt for backing up the shuts.

Location

Located at the far right end of the Red Wall. Shares a start with Tom-Tom Club. Rappell from shuts.

Protection

6 draws

Photos

Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Really Fun route!! Little business here a little business there. Sustained climbing with excellent movements and holds. Climb up the arĂȘte and work your way left as you move higher. IF you are going to rap clean this route beware there is a pretty large swing required to get to the route from the anchor. Jan 13, 2013
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.10c
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
  5.10c
This route got a facelift. New hardware from the ASCA and rebolting by Tim Fisher. Apr 7, 2013
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.10c
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
  5.10c
Replaced bolts three and four with stainless steel glue-ins 12/7/2013. Dec 7, 2013
Phillip M.
Spartanburg/Rock Hill
 
Phillip M.   Spartanburg/Rock Hill
 
Great Climb. If you stick clip the first bolt you have no worry of taking bad falls. Nov 14, 2015
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.10c
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.10c
This line is a tight squeeze with Tom Tom Club but luckily we were there with R. Hutchins who helped us understand Diab's originally intended line -- after pulling the small roof above bolt #1, clip bolt #2 and briefly climb up to the arete at bolt #3. From bolt #3, you return to the face and away from the arete.

There is a distinct crux move above bolt #3 while moving to bolt #4. It's tempting to climb the arete from #3 to #4 because it just seems natural but that bypasses the initial (and toughest IMHO) crux.


The climbing from bolt #5 to the anchors involves a fair amount of suspect rock.

Food for Thought: I realize there is some new hardware on this climb and no one wants to create more holes but bolt #2 and #3 could really stand to be moved up. You cannot clip #2 from under the roof so you have to pull through completely which puts #2 at or below your waist at that very safe stance... why not move it up 2-3'? If you moved #2, #3 could move up as well which would better protect the crux move and keep you from decking on the roof feature in the event you blew the crux from #3 to #4.
Nov 23, 2015
Shadrock
Here and there.
Shadrock   Here and there.
I don't know if this changes anything, but I pulled off a decent sized (maybe equivalent to a couple laptops) flake exiting the crux after the 4th bolt. I didn't use it the first time I sent it so I have no idea what made think this was good beta (esp. considering the generally poor rock quality on the upper section of Crowders). Anyways, I don't know if it'll change the grade at all but I thought I should mention it. Dec 21, 2015