This climb is on the New Capitalist area between Lunchmoney and Mounty. The first two bolts are obvious at a bulge 15 feet above the main ledge. Place the bomber #7 stopper at the back of the small ledge just above the second bolt and place the yellow Alien just before the fourth bolt. Similar to Lunchmoney but with slightly harder and shorter cruxes.
C a s e y B e r n a l
Protection
8 bolts and two anchor bolts. Bring (#7 stopper or green Alien) AND (#9 stopper or #10 stopper or yellow or red Alien) or equivalent pieces. A couple mid and long slings are nice.
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen Oct 6, 2003 rating: 5.10a
The first gear placement mentioned is not necessary; however, the second placement is nice to have. You do a couple thin moves above the yellow alien to gain the bolt. A fall would be disasterous. Fun locks at the top (wish there were more)!
By Darren Mabe From: Goulder, CO Oct 6, 2003 rating: 5.10a
A few more notes on the route description:
Above the first two bolts, the climbing is not hard getting onto the ledge where you can clip the 3rd bolt. The small cam placement 10 feet below the 4th bolt is pretty handy to avoid an ugly fall.
The traverse moves onto the low angle stance at 4th bolt are brilliant (5.9). The crack (crux) leading past the last two bolts is a quick little test of finger-tip crack technique. I bolted this finish a while ago, but took me and Casey's collaboration to develop the unique start. We completed it on Labor Day weekend 2003.
Recently, according to the logic of the first AC who posted on this route, someone added a bolt next to the bomber cam placement between the third and fourth bolts. Now if you run it out between the second and third bolts, it is a pure sport climb.
casey
By Darren Mabe From: Goulder, CO May 21, 2004 rating: 5.10a
I made the decision to add the controversial bolt. Only 8 QDs needed now. Fun route. Thought by many to be as good or better than Lunchmoney.
This route is nice addition to the lower wall of Capitalist Crag. Now, there are two moderates next to each other that allow extra mileage for your pleasure. No need for gear on the run out discussed above; it is minimal and on moderate terrain. Both routes are either 9+ or 10a. You can decide. The fifth clip is a bit of a reach but you can step down and make the traverse easier on lower footholds. A couple of locks later bring you to the belay.
A bit harder than Lunch Money. Leo Paik and O TR'ed this line in 10/02 and called it "Change". However, kudos to Darren for equipping the route, and others in this area, that does not get the road noise that is ubiquitous elsewhere in CCC.
Cheap Labor has a decidedly different feel from Lunchmoney, and very interesting moves.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 11, 2005 rating: 5.10b
A sustained and interesting pitch. The crux crack near the top of the pitch is pumpy; get the sequence right the first time!
By Walldahl From: Golden, CO Aug 21, 2006 rating: 5.10b
I felt the crux section was just a tad harder than the crux section of Lunchmoney but less sustained. I also felt that this climb deserves 3 stars...Great! I liked it so much, I pulled the rope and climbed it a second time. Fun!
Greetings, we climbed this route on Sunday July 6th. Very fun, but I am confused regarding info on trad pro needed? Has there been additional bolts placed? Anyway, everyone in our party felt comfortable with existing fixed gear. Mr. Olsen is sooo right! Get the sequence correct or downclimb! Peace.
Lower Capitalist Crag
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