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Alamo Rock Beer Barrel Boulder Capstan, The Cloud Shadow Cookie Jar Crown Rock Distant Dancer Pinnacle First Overhang Flagstaff Amphitheatre, The Golf Club Boulder Hobo Cave King Conquerer Little Flatiron Miscellaneous Valley Monkey Traverse Moon Rock Nook's Rock North Rocks Notlim Boulder One Arms rocks Overhang Wall Overhanging Prow Pebble Boulder Pinnacle Colada Pinnacle Colada Boulder Pratt's Overhang Rear-End Rock Red Wall Road Sign Rock Shark's Rock Three of a Kind Wall Trail Side Wall Tree Slab Umbrella Tree Upper Y Traverse
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DescriptionFlagstaff Mountain is the local bouldering area. This place has quite a history, and despite the fact that it is no Hueco Tanks, there are many historical and classic "moderate" problems. Flagstaff Mountain is a unique area in that the bouldering does not involve pushing yourself on the latest V9, but attempting moderate and historical problems that are sometimes a little scary and sandbagged. There are few beginner problems, and not a whole lot of world class problems, but tons to pander to the intermediate climber. There is quite a lot of climbing at Flagstaff. There are the central popular areas like the Monkey Traverse, Beer Barrel, Red Wall, Capstan, and Cloud Shadow areas, but also many outlying areas that give some relief from the afterwork crowds, these are the Candle area, Pumpkin Rock, and Upper area. Climbing at Flag has several prerequisites. The climbing tends to be powerful, and quite bold sometimes. The rock will quickly tear up your fingers because of its sandpaper consistency, yet feel greasy at the same time. I have always found the place particularly conductive to circuits, starting at the Upper area and working down to Pumpkin Rock, one can do around 100 problems in the v0-v5 range. One can conduct innumerable ciruits from these problems. Some good problems at Flag include Cloud Shadow Traverse (v2-v6), Hagans Wall (v5), Consideration (v3), Monkey Traverse (v3, greasy and often too crowded), Pratts Mantle (v2), south arete of Beer Barrel (v0), Polling Pebble (v5), Tree Slab Traverse (v1), right side of Redwall (v4 very height dependant), King Conquerer (v2 scary!). Harder problems (which I have not done but are obviously classic), Just Right (v7), Undercling Traverse (v9), Hollows Way (v8), Mongolian Cosmonaut (v8), Over Yourself (v10), Ooze Pig (v7), Trice (fifth class, I believe it has still never been repeated since holloway did it in the 70's, and not for lack of trying) Getting ThereTake Baseline Road west, go up the hill trying to avoid the flashy bikers. There are several places to park. The Capstan is a 30' spire in the middle of a hairpin turn, one can park here or continue on to the first lot on the left after the Capstan, this will take you to the Monkey Traverse area or across the road to Red Wall. Another thing to mention is that Flag is within reasonable walking distance from CU, it is about 1.5 miles away from campus, yet I have made this walk innumerable times, it takes about a half hour and is highly enjoyable. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Flagstaff:
Southwest Prow V0 Boulder Beer Barrel Boulder
Overhanging Hand Traverse V1 Boulder, 20 feet The Flagstaff Amphitheatre
Big Overhang V2 Boulder, 15 feet Overhang Wall
Pratt's Mantle V2+ Boulder, 10 feet Pratt's Overhang
The Face V3 Boulder, 12 feet Three of a Kind Wall
Upper Y Traverse V3 Boulder, 40 feet Upper Y Traverse
Aerial Burial V3 Boulder, 10 feet Pratt's Overhang
King Conqer V3 R Boulder, 20 feet King Conquerer
Center Left V4 Boulder Red Wall
The Monkey Traverse V4 Boulder, 10 feet Monkey Traverse
The Consideration V4 Boulder Cloud Shadow
Hagan's Wall V4-5 Boulder Cloud Shadow
Cloud shadow traverse V5 Boulder Cloud Shadow
The Traverse V5 Boulder, 20 feet Three of a Kind Wall
Face Out V5 Boulder, 10 feet King Conquerer
Eric Varney Direct V5 Boulder Red Wall
First Overhang V6 Boulder, 10 feet First Overhang
Just Right V7 Boulder The Capstan
Mongolian Cosmonaut V9 Boulder The Flagstaff Amphitheatre
Trice V12 Boulder, 10 feet Cloud Shadow
Featured Route For Flagstaff
Center Left V4 CO : Boulder : ... : Red Wall
A classic line that is rated V3 in all the guidebooks but feels at least V4 to me, oh well, ratings smatings. Start on the center left of the wall on some jugs. Throw a heel in an obvious jug and move with the right hand up and into a shallow three finger pocket, mantle onto your left foot and pinch two dicey pebbles to reach the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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