Type: Boulder
FA: Jim Holloway, 1973
Page Views: 8,411 total · 36/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.

Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.

Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing sidepulls seven feet up, Just Right has also been done at V10 from the low start by Skip Guerin and Ben Moon. There used to be a perfect cheater stone in place for this problem, but it was built into the retaining wall next to the boulder. Now people either stack up pads or make a small cairn of sorts to gain the holds.

Muckle on to the opposing sidepulls, lunge for the pocket, kick your feet back on, and crimp your way over the slabby lip. A Chris Hill problem, Just Wrong, hits the pocket with the left hand instead.

Should you despair in your bid for summit glory bear in mind that Colin Lantz did this thing in Tevas with a lit cigarette in his mouth on a greasy summer evening.

That should light a bit of a fire under your ass....

Protection

A crashpad and a cheater stone.

Photos