Hagan's Wall

This is an incredible problem with interesting holds. Most people start with both feet on the smaller of two blocks, but a direct start, which I couldn't do, makes the problem harder and seems to be the full line. Jan 1, 2001

I did a start off the ground from the right, getting the first pocket with the left, and using a tiny pocket just right to get to the good flake on Hagan's. It seems pretty hard. Oct 16, 2002

Classic route although getting to the starting holds is somewhat strange for the small folk. May 13, 2003

Yes Zach, we small folk must stick together and compalin about them giganter folk. Mar 14, 2004

Hagan's Wall 1969 by Paul Hagan. One problem left is Dandy Lion (Dandy Line V5 according to B.H. guide) - early 80s by Dan Stone; this problem is seldom done and is not as hard as it looks once the beta is known - a real circus trick dyno. Left of this is Launching Pad, which has lost a key crystal. This problem is actually two problems left of Dandy Line (P.A. says "...still right of a kind of inset is a difficult route over an overhang...). P.B. says V4, B.H. says V4, P.A. calls it Hagan's Alcove, by Paul Hagan in 1969. IMHO - I think there is a direct line between Dandy Line and Launching Pad that has yet to be done. Apr 3, 2004

Hey John - did you do that line between Dandy Line and Launching Pad? Apr 3, 2004

I think the really positive starting left hand crimp/sidepull must have broke in the last year or so. I used to be able to send this pretty consistently, but I can barely pull onto the starting holds now. There is still something there, but it isn't nearly as good as it used to be. Oct 11, 2004

The right hand flake seems to flex everytime I see someone on this problem. You should avoid this problem after the rain, lest we soon have a new harder version. Nov 27, 2005

I went to Flagstaff the other day, and being a short dude and reading Benningfield's book I was lost. I believe he stated, "Start contorted..." what the hell? Do I stack a pad to reach up, the rock to the left, or am I missing something?

Andrew Jun 28, 2006

If you're 5'7" or taller, you should be able to start on the smaller, lower boulder at the base of the problem (the chalky rock in the pictures). I started out odd and off balance crimping on two small holds; leaned out right and got the good pocket all while keeping my right foot high on the above mentioned boulder. Aug 29, 2006

I don't know why, but it took me forever to get this line, but when I did, it was kind of anticlimactic. If it was a few feet taller, it would be awesome. Oct 23, 2006

For video of Hagan's and the Consideration, check my blog:
mountainsandwater.blogspot.… Jun 16, 2008

The temps sure do make a difference with this problem and many others at the 'staff... is it November yet? Jun 8, 2010

The good flake on Hagan's has broken substantially, making it a bit harder but not more than V6. Jan 30, 2011

Just went and hit up my old Flagstaff circuit today. Climbed Hagen's and did not know it had broke, still feels like V4-5. Apr 9, 2012

Super fun route! Anyone ever start one move lower? Right hand in the pocket, left hand pinching/crimping the double pebble, then punching up with the left hand to the crimp? Did it yesterday, and it definitely adds some difficulty despite only being one more move. Apr 14, 2016