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Routes in Cloud Shadow

Type: Boulder
FA: Pat Ament
Page Views: 6,917 total, 34/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on the good hole on Contemplation, use this for your left hand and make a big move up to a good large edge. From here, cross over with the left hand to a bad crimp, rearrange your feet, and make a committing throw out right to a good, left-trending rail. This is a good classic problem.

Protection

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Photos

Cesar Valencia  
  V4
Is the crimp below the 6 finger rail off? I use it as a bump to get to the rail instead of making the huge move from start to rail. Thoughts? Mar 9, 2016
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
John Tex
Estes
 
John Tex   Estes
 
Maybe I'm crazy, but I have not found any beta for this route that matches my own. I do not think I was on a different problem ,because I can see an undercling that I used in the picture. I move out to the very deep pocket/jug and make a fairly big move to the good hold. I then bring my left hand into the undercling which in the route photo is about 8 inches up and right from his left hand without hardly any chalk on it. It just looks like a deep shadow and is a pretty good hold. I then go all the way out to the rail with my right and top out. It is a good stretch, and I am almost 5'11, but if you go for the right spot, a shorter person could do this. Only reason I am adding this much on this problem is that I felt the big move was extremely fun and the most logical way to climb it (and I don't think it warrant its own route) :) May 12, 2013
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
FWIW, the name of this problem is "The Consideration" ... NOT "Consideration." Nov 22, 2009
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
pfwein - I deleted my previous post, since you've clarified yours.

You will know if you do Reverse Consideration. Switch the hands in the first beta photo above and you've got it. It's a completely ridiculous contortionist crossover that is really fun and made possible by perfectly placed feet. Match and throw to the lip. It's also got some cool history, being a Holloway problem.

True Consideration is thought to be the original way The Consideration was climbed ... without the small LH crimp to assist in attaining the lip.

Later. Nov 22, 2009
pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
Chip, my description was from an old timer, and it is a high quality problem as I describe it (I have done it, although not today). It's interesting that your guide doesn't seem to have the problem I describe: maybe I'm just not reading your guide right. I'd like to know the correct name, as it's a great problem, IMHO.
Peter W

Edit: What I describe is the same as "True Consideration" on Chip Phillips' website, except that you don't match on the "crimp rail," you go directly to it with your left hand. Getting established to attempt the final throw is not easy (at least for me). Upon further reflection, I don't recall that the old timer described this as "Reverse Consideration," that was probably my (mis)interpretation, so I humbly withdraw my mild challenge to Chip Philips. Nov 22, 2009
pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
Someone should add Reverse Consideration: I'll try to do that when I take a camera there. Basically you go up to the first ledge with your left hand, and then directly to the "left trending rail" with your right hand. You don't use what is described as the bad crimp. Getting your feet arranged properly is important. Nov 21, 2009