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Routes in Cloud Shadow

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Jim Holloway 1970s
Page Views: 7,369 total, 60/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the sidepull and edge on UCT and reach for a pocket with your right hand. Reach left to a very small edge with the left and fight the swing. Pop for the ramp on the right and you are done.

An amazing legacy of the 1970s, this problem has endured curiosity and controversy like the other Holloway problems. Like those others, unrepeated, yet clearly in its original condition and not height-dependent.

Location

This is just right of the Consideration.

Protection

Pad or two.
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Seth Allred and Giovanni Traversi have now done Trice as well. It's funny what the Holloway article in Climbing and a Letter to the Editor inspired ... 8 ascents so far and Paul and Ty haven't even done it yet. Props to Carlo and Jamie for "re-opening" the problem on the same day in December.

Of note, DW tacked a few moves onto the beginning of Trice in January 2008, starting at the dihedral on the right and traversing left into Trice. He named it Epochalypse V13. Not sure why he did not do the whole RUCT->Trice linkup. Of course, that should be named Epochalypse Now. Mar 22, 2008
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Dave Graham has now done Trice as well. That's ascent #s 2-6 between November 14th, 2007 and January 10th, 2008. I guess that Holloway article in Climbing a few months ago inspired some strongmos to give what must be the world's first V12 a few whirls, particularly after it sat unrepeated for 32 years. Jan 17, 2008
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
A few things:

For those who care ... Holloway's FA was in 1975. Also, the starting holds in the above beta photo are a bit misleading. The problem starts - according to Jim himself - with the good LH sidepull and good RH undercling.

As reported, Jim Holloway's Trice is no longer unrepeated. Carlo Traversi, Jamie Emerson, James Pearson and now Daniel Woods have repeated it. Pete's guesstimation of the grade was spot on. Four ascents by strongmos in the last few weeks have confirmed it at V12. It is unlikely this problem will ever be subject to downgrading.

Carlo recently upped the ante by starting UCT and finishing up Trice ... Epoch V13.

Anyway, it's a regular trade route now, so come do it.

Peace. Dec 23, 2007