Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Stevie Damboise, 1998
Page Views: 367 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matth Person on May 31, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

For using the same holds as the standard version, Reverse UCT has a completely different feel. Where the standard version feels very technical to me, this variation feels incredibly powerful and also worth one's time.

There are a few ways people start this problem. A harder variation starts at he little cave and traverses along the lip of the wall into the corner, into the holds of UCT, and finishes up The Consideration. This variation supposedly goes at V10, but I have not done it.

Most people I have seen work this problem start with your left hand in the pocket and your right hand on the corner where folks start Epochalypse. I imagine this checks in at V9 or so.

I personally started on some holds in the corner, and I finished up using the pocket on moderate bulge. I still think I would take V9 for this, but if you want a harder challenge, do The Consideration and the 10 extra feet of traversing on the right.

My Reverse UCT Beta.

Peter Beal's beta starting from the pocket.

Variations: 

The Full Cloud Shadow Traverse: (V10, 60 feet) do Reverse UCT into the Cloud Shadow Traverse. If you want to make it harder, finish up traverse ramp (and not escape).

Trolling For Mank: (V10/11, 60 feet) do Reverse UCT into the low Cloud Shadow Traverse.

I found a good kneebar on this that I am not sure other people have used when they did this variation. Without it, I would definitely take the V11, but I don't regularly climb that hard, so I don't know.

My Trolling for Mank beta.

As per usual, more info can be found in the Flagstaff Mountain bouldering guidebook. Have fun!

Location Suggest change

It is on the far right side of Cloud Shadow Boulder.

Protection Suggest change

I would definitely want a pad or two.

Photos

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