Type: Boulder
FA: Xander Oxman
Page Views: 4,462 total · 36/month
Shared By: Cesar Valencia on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


90 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do ·

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This is a great problem that has some really fun powerful moves. It starts with a low sds right hand on a large cobble and your left hand on a small sidepull down really low or in a tiny mono. Your feet are smearing on some small pebble patches and never really feel solid.

Once you manage to pull off the ground, start by going up left hand to a poor sidepull pinch and make a strong move right to a good sharp edge. Get your feet up and cross into another sharp pinch. Finally go up left hand to an OK crimp, and make a fun lock off move up and right to the 'Trough'.

It's suggested that once you make your way into the hole (Trough) you should either jump off or make some sketchy moves out right and walk off on the boulder that is leaning up against the east face of the Capstan Rock. Another option is to top out direct and descend the north face to the road.

Location

This is located on The Capstan Boulder directly to the right of Just Right.

Protection

One pad should do the trick. If you are climbing alone, make sure to place your pads strategically, since you jump off the boulder once you reach the hole (Trough).

Photos