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Routes in The Capstan

Just Right V7 7A+
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9 7C
South Crack V3- 6A X
Trough Direct SDS, The V8 7B
West Face [The Capstan] TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Boulder
FA: Xander Oxman
Page Views: 1,523 total · 22/month
Shared By: Cesar Valencia on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great problem that has some really fun powerful moves. It starts with a low sds right hand on a large cobble and your left hand on a small sidepull down really low or in a tiny mono. Your feet are smearing on some small pebble patches and never really feel solid.

Once you manage to pull off the ground, start by going up left hand to a poor sidepull pinch and make a strong move right to a good sharp edge. Get your feet up and cross into another sharp pinch. Finally go up left hand to an OK crimp, and make a fun lock off move up and right to the 'Trough'.

It's suggested that once you make your way into the hole (Trough) you should either jump off or make some sketchy moves out right and walk off on the boulder that is leaning up against the east face of the Capstan Rock. Another option is to top out direct and descend the north face to the road.

Location

This is located on The Capstan Boulder directly to the right of Just Right.

Protection

One pad should do the trick. If you are climbing alone, make sure to place your pads strategically, since you jump off the boulder once you reach the hole (Trough).

Photos

Cesar Valencia  
  V8
Here is a short video of The Trough Direct with some alternative beta on getting off the boulder, lol.

youtube.com/watch?v=hX-ybIA… Feb 19, 2013
DPug
  V6+
DPug  
  V6+
Really fun, feels easier than Just Right. Jan 31, 2015

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