Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: [Pat Ament]
Page Views: 6,882 total · 37/month
Shared By: jonah on Aug 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


King Conqueror ascends the beautiful crack running right up the middle of the rock. The problem is a lot more overhanging than it looks and uses the crack a lot less than you might expect. The crux is a little inobvious but a lot of fun once you figure it out. It is one of the best problems Flagstaff has to offer.


It is nice to have several pads and spotters; it's kinda highball.


Owen Silver
Boulder, CO
Owen Silver   Boulder, CO
That's King Conquer. Oct 21, 2003
Be careful with the undercling out right. Part of it broke off on me and I'm payin' for it!!! Aug 15, 2004
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
FA: Pat Ament! Aug 21, 2006
Andrew McLean
Eldoorado Springs, CO
Andrew McLean   Eldoorado Springs, CO
This problem is classic and definitely high ball.

Last summer I slipped off the sloperish top out with my right leg up and missed the crash pad compressing my left leg directly on the sizable buried boulder at the landing. The result of this fall was 4 broken bones and 4 months recovery time.

Just make sure you have a crash pad over the boulder and a really good spotter. May 17, 2009
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
This is rather highball, and the landing isn't the best. Rather than bringing pads, I just go with a friend and set up a TR. Go behind the route and you can march up an easy slab, or more of a staircase, and set up a TR that you can back up with cams and nuts. I know people get crap for top-roping, but come on...it's a safe way to have some fun on an otherwise dangerous highball. Sep 25, 2011
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
John McMullen   El Portal, CA
Historical. I remember working on this when I lived in Boulder. I made several attempts, and psyched myself off. I knew I could climb it, but I couldn't wrap my head around the height. I really hurt my feet falling off it several times ... didn't have pads in the early '80s, around '82.
Finally, I was there one day, and Hidetaka Suzuki came up and climbed it almost effortlessly.... I climbed it right after he got on top, and I think he was very confused by my happiness ... but we both got a huge laugh from my excitement. ;-)
The climb itself is now much less important than that memory of sitting on top with Suzuki and meeting him for the first time. Oct 17, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
Great story, John M. I spent a week or so with Suzuki and his wife in Yosemite in 1983. One of the nicest guys you could ever hope to know...and he seemed to make EVERYTHING (including Tales of Power and Separate Reality) seem effortless. May 22, 2017