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Chickies Rock

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1 Northwest Buttress 
2 The Cave 
3 Trail Valley 
4 Main Wall 

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Chickies Rock 


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Location: 40.0516, -76.525 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,864
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Feb 14, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies

Description 

Chickies Rock is a traditional climbing crag on cliffs rising over the east bank of the Susquehanna River. It has single- and multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.0 to 5.10+ or 5.11-, on adequate quality metamorphic rock. It's popular to climb on top rope on the Main Face, with slings and trad protection to build anchors; you'll find no bolts here!

The crag is in the eponymous Chickies Rock Park. The rock itself is Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite. Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast. According to USGS, the summit of the ridge is 587 feet (179 metres) above sea level. The state park info says the cliff is 200 feet tall--and that might be true by the overlook, but at the south end--on the face where the main crowd climbs--the cliff is about 150 feet. Maybe 75-100 feet up to Riverview Ledge, and then another 50 feet up the Block if you try for a second pitch; very few people do that.


Getting There 

Chickies is just off Highway 441 near Columbia, PA. Use this map as a reference:

www.co.lancaster.pa.us/parks/lib/parks/Chickies_rev.pdf

The parking area indicated by the "P" on chickies Rock Overlook Trail is NOT where you want to park. This is a longer hike and ends at the top of the overlook. the best place to park is to the north where the Susquehanna Heritage Trail meets 441. It's a pullout beside a grassy area with a few white municipal buildings. Follow the trail to the south along the river and old railway tracks to the far south end of the rock.


Rock Type 

Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite : "light-gray to white, hard, massive quartzite and quartz schist with thin interbedded dark slate at top."


Governance 

Lancaster County Department of Parks and Recreation


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chickies Rock:
The Exorcist   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   2 The Cave
Witches Brew   5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   4 Main Wall
For Madmen Only   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R     TR, 1 pitch, 105'   4 Main Wall
Main Street (left)   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   4 Main Wall
The Undercling   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   4 Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Chickies Rock

Featured Route For Chickies Rock
Main street runs right up the center of the photo.  I'm at the top at the right end of the roof.

Main Street (right) 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13  PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall
Main Street Crack ends at a small tree/bush, then there is a short slabby section of rock below The Great Roof just under the summit. This is the giant roof you can see from the ground. Main Street (right) finishes in the corner at the right side of the roof. Main Street (left) continues straight up from the bush to an awkward stance under the roof, then traverses left (scary) with little or no protection to gain the prominent arete and then to the summit. In both instances, surmounting/bypassin...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Chickies Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.
BETA PHOTO: Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.
 main wall at chickies
main wall at chickies
Decent perspective on the problem
Decent perspective on the problem
Ryan following on Main St.
BETA PHOTO: Ryan following on Main St.
Chickies Main Wall topo from Chickies climbing guide available at <a href='http://mhartman.net/climbing/chickies.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >mhartman.net/climbing/chickies.html</a>
BETA PHOTO: Chickies Main Wall topo from Chickies climbing gui...
Comments on Chickies Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By pjheinz83
From: Southeast Pennsylvania
May 31, 2013

It's listed as a link in one of the images - but check out the site below for detailed guides

mhartman.net/climbing/chickies.html]]mhartman.net/climbing/c>>>

By johnva
From: ALEXANDRIA
Sep 15, 2013

two sets of bolts and chains, thank you to the installer.

However the chain at the top is a little short and if you rappel down to main ledge pulling rope very hard/impossible. Adding a couple of links would allow rope to float as opposed to getting stuck on rock due to bend.