Chickies Rock Rock Climbing
Decent perspective on the problem
Chickies Rock is a traditional climbing crag on cliffs rising over the east bank of the Susquehanna River. It has single- and multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.0 to 5.10+ or 5.11-, on adequate quality metamorphic rock. It's popular to climb on top rope on the Main Face, with slings and trad protection to build anchors; you'll find no bolts here!
The crag is in the eponymous Chickies Rock Park. The rock itself is Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite. Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast. According to USGS, the summit of the ridge is 587 feet (179 metres) above sea level. The state park info says the cliff is 200 feet tall--and that might be true by the overlook, but at the south end--on the face where the main crowd climbs--the cliff is about 150 feet. Maybe 75-100 feet up to Riverview Ledge, and then another 50 feet up the Block if you try for a second pitch; very few people do that.
Chickies is just off Highway 441 near Columbia, PA. Use this map as a reference: co.lancaster.pa.us/parks/lib/p...
The parking area indicated by the "P" on chickies Rock Overlook Trail is NOT where you want to park. This is a longer hike and ends at the top of the overlook. the best place to park is to the north where the Susquehanna Heritage Trail meets 441. It's a pullout beside a grassy area with a few white municipal buildings. Follow the trail to the south along the river and old railway tracks to the far south end of the rock.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chickies Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chickies Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chickies Rock:
Featured Route For Chickies Rock
The Library 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PA
: South Central PA
: ... : Main Wall
Look for the large dihedral at the base of the cliff. The Library climbs the first dihedral then continues through the second "open book" to the left. Because of the traversing natures of this climb (moving left to get into the second dihedral) most top-rope climbers just climb the first dihedral, step to the right and continue the large broken crack system to the ledge....[more] Browse More Classics in PA
BETA PHOTO: Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.
BETA PHOTO: Chickies Main Wall topo from Chickies climbing gui...
BETA PHOTO: Main Street and Library
BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies
BETA PHOTO: Ryan following on Main St.
BETA PHOTO: Top of Main Street
Sep 15, 2013
two sets of bolts and chains, thank you to the installer.
However the chain at the top is a little short and if you rappel down to main ledge pulling rope very hard/impossible. Adding a couple of links would allow rope to float as opposed to getting stuck on rock due to bend.
By Corey Taormina
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 1, 2014
just to let people know, the parking area that is noted in here, you can't park there anymore. There are three no parking signs by the open grassy field. And I did confirm this with the Lancaster County Parks Department as well. They said it the land is owned by a private owner.
By Kevin A. Brenneman
May 27, 2015
Climbed here over the weekend, and can confirm that the pull-off parking down the hill north of the main overlook trail parking area remains off-limits. To get to the bottom of the wall requires a scramble down from the top using one of the branch trails. More power to you if it is at all wet/damp. Another option would be a long walk-in from the south using Chiques Trail from the parking area at the end of Breezyview Drive (off of Rt. 441) south of the main parking area.