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Will in the squeeze
Info courtesy of Widefetish.com
This is a good route with cool moves low and fine example of squeeze chimney up high.
The various guidebooks (Vogel, Bartlett) have lines all over this crag, none really describing this route. The actual Couldn't Wait is rumored to start on the two bolt face to the right of the pillar, and then wanders back over to the wide. Climb the corner instead of the two bolt face.
Be wary of the fake loose block in the starting corner. You can pro below the block and the moves around it are not hard.
Our crew did the wide right side in and left side in. Pick your poison.
If you have the hips of a Thai crossdresser, you can get right inside the chimney from the get-go and stay in there. If you are more voluptuous, the constriction at the start will force you to the outside.
Descent is off the back heading South to SouthWest down some ledges and ramps.
This route lies on the wall that is climbers right and behind Coarse and Buggy, the mega classic Josh dihedral route. The start of Couldn't Wait is up off the desert floor a ways, so scramble in from climbers right along a series of ledges.
The start is either the two bolt face just right of the pillar, (lame!) or directly up the right facing corner with a possible death block hanging out of the maw. Seemed pretty solid to me, but I would not place pro behind it and expect to live in the event of a fall.
A hand/fist sized cam to start and then a 5" cam at the top of the pillar. I used a 3/4" TCU to protect the move off the top of the pillar and then a 2" cam protects the entry move in to the chimney. The chimney itself is pretty wide, but a #6 Wild Country works well in the back. Bring a 3.5" cam for the exit moves. Anchor takes 1" to 3" cams.
Me on the opening moves in the dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the wall
The entry into the wide at the top of the pillar.
By Nick Barczak
Mar 16, 2009
Climbed this route with two other friends on 3.15.09 and we all agreed this route was a choss-fest and ultimately not worth the 10 minute walk from the car.
Mar 17, 2009
The lower section of this route has many fissures in the rock. Large chunks can be pulled of easily (esp. around the lodged flake).