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Upper Gibraltar
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A Route Runs Through It 
Crescent, The 
Dazed and Confused 
Gibbon, The 
Slacker 
Soul, The 
Triple Overhang 

Dazed and Confused 

5.10b

   

FA: B. Culver, J. Buhl, M. Brown, S. Edwards, 1993
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 248 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Feb 5, 2006


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Just another perfect day in paradise. Mike Morley...


Description 

Dazed and Confused is the first bolted line encountered as you approach the crag from the Toxic Waste Wall (far left). The route is the longest one on the wall, at around 120'.

Start just right of a gully, and stay on the vertical, crimpy face past 3 or 4 bolts for full value. Bailing off left into the gully drops the difficulty down to 5.8. Move up and left, passing a few more bolts, to gain a ledge. Here's where a little gear comes in handy, as otherwise you'll have to make an unprotected couple of moves right before being able to clip the next bolt. A fall here wouldn't be advised. Use of a long sling off the ledge eases rope drag. Steep, featured face climbing past a few more bolts to the top.

Be extremely careful lowering if using less than a 70m rope!


Protection 

Bolts, a couple TCUs, and at least one long sling.



Photos of Dazed and Confused Slideshow Add Photo
A little higher up Dazed and Confused on a gorgeous Santa Barbara day.

A little higher up Dazed and Confused on a gorgeou...


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By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 22, 2008

Staying directly on the bolt line and slightly right here and there (not using the left edge holds) definitely raises the grade several ticks.