Buttermilk Country  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  6,400' Lat, Long:  37.3291, -118.5771 Map Page Views:  370,375. Good page? (2 likes)    Administrators:  Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Adam Winters on Oct 21, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Buttermilk Country

Description 

The scenic Buttermilk Country has long been one of California's premier bouldering destinations with a long history of ground-breaking ascents and some of the proudest and most impressive lines in the world. These massive glacial erratic boulders sit in the foothills of the Sierras under an impressive lineup of peaks just a mere four miles to the west. Granite-like quartz monzonite makes up the boulders featuring sweeping blank faces, polished patina crimps/plates and sharp slopers and edges. Fingers tend to get torn up quickly so bring tape if your callouses aren't sufficient. Included here are The Mandala, Evilution, Saigon, and High Plains Drifter as some well-known classics.

The bouldering here is BIG. A number of problems feature reachy standing or jumping starts with huge moves, and on many routes you'll soon find your feet well above a height you'd want to bail at. Don't leave any foam at home because alot of the classics top out at 20+ feet. Before you hop on a boulder scout the down-climb first, as many require some techy down-climbing and/or a big jump to the ground.

If you need a rest day there is some fun roped climbing on a handful of small crags not far to the north, or you might want to explore the wacky chasms and rock formations of Buttermilk Dome.

* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *

Opening moves. Submitted By: Jonathan Williams on Dec 12, 2010

Some heavy-hitter boulders in the Buttermilks Submitted By: Adam Winters on Apr 16, 2013

Getting There 

From downtown Bishop, take W. Line Street/Highway 168 west towards the Sierras. After eight miles or so, turn right onto Buttermilk Road. Follow this bumpy, washboard road for approximately 3.5 miles to the main area on your right. If you pass the Peabodies without noticing, you probably aren't a climber because they are gigantic. The boulders are incredibly obvious on the right (north) side of the road. Park in designated areas.

For more complete information and great color photographs, refer to: "Bishop Bouldering", by Wills Young and Mick Ryan. Pick up a copy at Wilson's Eastside Sports for $36, a small price to pay for perhaps the best bouldering guide out there and a great addition to your book collection.

Andrew Thomas working 'This Side of Paradise' v9-10, Buttermilks Submitted By: Adam Winters on Apr 5, 2010

The Classics

Featured Route For Buttermilk Country

Sheepherder V2  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Loaf

Really fun climb (kind of a highball). Climb up on some good knobs and crimps into a tall, shallow groove. Focus on footwork and make some balancey moves to top out. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Buttermilk Country Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Buttermilks Overview Photo	View from atop Buttermilk Dome	Mt. Tom and the Buttermilks. Photo by Blitzo.
Bouldering at The Buttermilks. Photo by Blitzo.	Bouldering at The Buttermilks, 1980s. Photo by Bli...	Snack time at The Buttermilks. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking towards Little Egypt, Buttermilks Boulders	Looking north towards the Wheeler Crest, Buttermil...	Buttermilk morning. Photo by Blitzo.
Funky Tut. Photo by Blitzo.	Grandpa Peabody	Area ? on the way to the Birthday Boulders
Tut Boulder. Photo: Blitzo collection.	Buttermilk Dome	The Buttermilks, looking east over Bishop and the ...
Doug Robinson deep into being lost on Smoke's Rock...	Winter Sunrise on the Sierra from Buttermilk Road.	Rest day in the Buttermilks
Erika at the b'milks	Erika working a low traverse	Mt. Tom at sunrise
Buttermilk Road, January '06	Winter in the 'Milks	Mount Humphreys (left) and Basin Mountain, a coupl...
Bob Horan bouldering in the Buttermilks.	BHhb in the Buttermilks, photo: Bob Horan Collecti...	Moon and boulder in the Buttermilks
Buttermilks Panorama	View from the old mine at Buttermilks, CA	Mt. Tom towering over the Buttermilks
Buttermilking	Sun setting over Mt. Tom, from the Buttermilks	AW on an amazing unnamed highball...
Andrew Thomas on 'This Side of Paradise' v10, Bard...	The Bardini Boulder	Mt Tom in the background, classic buttermilks wint...
Our incredible camp site. I hope this stays unrest...	A famous french climber named Gabbi	Highway to the Buttermilks
one of the many slot canyons	great dihedral on the Smoke's Course	great views on the Smoke's course
looking back toward the access road from Hwy 168	Basin Mt & Mt Tom	many opportunities for scrambling
blue bird day	fun offwidth practice	lots of opportunties for exposure
looking SE	another chimney	looking toward Wheeler Crest
looking toward Basin Mt & Mt Humphreys	buttermilks in august!	august
buttermilks	2011 fire. About a mile and a half from the boulde...	Paintbrush. Photo by Blitzo.
Cool Sky. Photo by Blitzo.	Buttermilks Main from Dale's Camp	Entrance to the Buttermilks
The Buttermilk	Some heavy-hitter boulders in the Buttermilks