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Routes in Grandpa Peabody Boulder

Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 X
Ambrosia V11 8A X
Cave Problem V4 6B
Evilution V12-13 8B R
Footprints V9 7C X
Lucid Dreaming V15 8C
Rastaman Vibration V12 8A+
Transporter Room 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V5 6C X
Type: Boulder, 55 ft
FA: Jason Kehl
Page Views: 19,128 total, 144/month
Shared By: Tim Steele on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This landmark problem was first climbed by Jason Kehl, and stands as a North American classic. At 55 feet, it is closer to a route than a boulder problem, and represents a new breed of boulder problems pushing the envelope of highball bouldering. The initial face was first ascended by Chris Sharma around the same time that he did 'The Mandala'. Originally, Chris simply dropped off from the lip holds at 20+ feet (most people down climb a bit before dropping). The initial face features steep patina crimps on immaculate rock streaked with yellow lichen. The drop-off problem is a classic in its own right and checks in at V9/10.

Jason’s visionary line pulls the thin lip moves above the drop-off problem and continues onto an insecure 5.11 slab. The upper crux is purportedly V9. Since Jason’s ascent, a variation has been established that takes are rightward exit that has easier moves, but on less than solid rock.

Location

Center of the South face of the Grandpa Peabody.

Protection

pads and spotters...lots of them.

Photos

nathanael
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
youtube.com/watch?v=XlzvH-w…

First Female Ascent by Nina Williams

Is there a start that doesn't require a 6 pad stack? Mar 3, 2016
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Sharma did not name the problem when he did the first ascent to the lip around 2000. Other climbers rated it V10 and called it the 45 degree overhang on the Grandpa Peabody boulder.

Jason Kehl put up the original Evilution in 2002. He almost did not complete his project because he was about to leave Bishop for other projects. I have read him being disappointed that future ascentionists prefer to climb the easier, direct line rather than his version. Kehl used a mono crimp to a breadloaf sloper on the upper portion. Jason's vision of this climb ushered in the modern bouldering highball movement. Most ascents of Evilution after his onward go by the easier variation, which uses a loose jug hold. He avoided this big hold entirely.

The second ascentionist, Frenchman Tony Lamiche, established the variation during a Petzl Roctrip in the early 2000's. He sent on the same day that fellow Frenchman Daniel (D.D.) Dulac broke his ankle badly, ending his trip.

I think Alex Honnold has completed the problem past the lip. Highball master Kevin Jorgeson has done it. Carlo Traversi and his brother Giovanni both made ground up ascents of the original Evolution (V12) in late 2008. Tobias Haller did Evolution Direct (V11) ground up around the same time. The accomplished climber Matt Wilder did both versions of the problem in the latter part of the 2008 season as well. Enzo Oddo also did it recently. The 12 year old Mirko Caballero sent in December 2013 which I find very impressive. Jan 27, 2014
Mark Kauz
Madison, WI
Mark Kauz   Madison, WI
Who's got repeats on this? I know Alex Johnson did it, but I'm not sure if it was to the lip or all the way up. Feb 3, 2010
molony  
i was actually wondering if sharma had given the problem a namewhen he originally did it, guess not Apr 7, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Yep- that would be the one. It seems as though the B2 would be "Evilution to the Lip" and that aspect faces the road more. The left hand .12c may not actually exist, I saw some folks out there with ladders to scope holds and some chalk on it for the first time ever. The location of Transporter Room is actually pretty close but the face that it is on is much wider and runs more perpendicular to the road. The easier routes are further right still around a blunt arete and starting near the blunt arete and heading left into the towering face that overhangs slightly all the way to the top of the boulder which was what I always thought was "Transporter Room" is actually Ambrosia V11+++. A new Kevin J. problem, He had actually also been under the impresion that this was Transporter Room until an actual description of the route was availible and made it apparent that it was closer to the left arete of the face. Mar 30, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
I'm basing that belief on the OLD Eastside guide that had poorly written topos of the Milks. In fact, mine could be a incorrect recollection of a correct description, or vice versa. To be honest, I never cross referenced that against the the new Mick Ryan guide (which I also have) since I've never been good enough to climb that hard that far OTD. I've bouldered there and just also thought that that's where Transporter Room went. Mar 30, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
As far as I know Transporter Room is just around the corner to the right of Evolution and it would be pretty hard to get them mixed up. Mar 9, 2009
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
I think what molony might be thinking of is Transporter Room, an old Dale Bard problem that went up that face. Other than that, I can't say whether "Evilution to the Lip" treads new ground or not. Mar 5, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Yep, it's called "Evilution to the Lip" Feb 19, 2009
molony  
just curious, but does the drop off version have a different name? Feb 18, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
Awesome problem. Evilution to the lip is a must-do for anyone climbing in the V10 range. Mar 31, 2008