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Areas in Buttermilks Main

Bachar Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Birthday Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Bowling Pin Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Boy and Girl Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Buttermilk Stem Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Buttocks/Smooth Shrimp Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Cave Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Corner Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Drifter/Smoking Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Fit Homeless Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Green Wall Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Grovel Roof Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hunk, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Iron Man Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Iron Man East Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Loaf, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lower Smoking Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mandala/Pope's Prow Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Peabody Boulders 2 / 0 / 1 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Peewee Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pope's Hat 3 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Ranger Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Roadside Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Saigon Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sharma Traverse Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Stained Glass/Flyboy Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sunshine Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Tut Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Upside Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Womb Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.

This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.


* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *


Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.


Getting There

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).


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Classic Climbing Routes at Buttermilks Main

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Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
Thinking about this makes me miss the 'Milks. It's been a while since I've climbed there. I drank my first ever beer while camped under Grandpa Peabody, and this was my first bouldering specific road trip back in 1997 for Spring Break!

But yeah, times, and rules have changed. Back in those days you were lucky if you saw a few other people with pads out there. Dec 26, 2016
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
Please don't camp at the boulders or near the parking areas! There is great camping just 100 yards across the road, up or down buttermilk road. Fires and broken glass suck to clean up after you have left. Camping at the parking area detracts from the view and overall experience others have as well as taking up parking spots forcing others to park on the scrub further deteriorating the area.

TAMPON APPLICATORS ARE NOT BIODEGRADABLE!!! STAY AT THE GYM. Sep 27, 2010

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