Description

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.

This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.

* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *

Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.

Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'

Getting There

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).

Please don't walk here.

252 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buttermilks Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 363
Hero Roof
Boulder
V0 4
 119
Robinson's Rubber Tester
Boulder
V1 5
 254
Buttermilk Stem
Boulder
V2 5+
 167
The Hunk
Boulder
V3 6A
 198
King Tut
Boulder
V3 6A
 234
Birthday Direct
Boulder
V3 6A
 205
Funky Tut
Boulder
V4 6B
 149
Bowling Pin
Boulder
V4 6B
 309
Iron Man Traverse
Boulder
V6- 7A
 78
Bowling Pin Sit
Boulder
V6 7A
 78
Saigon
Boulder
V6 7A
 96
Green Wall Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 164
High Plains Drifter
Boulder
V9 7C
 77
Soul Slinger
Boulder
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 92
Southwest Arete
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hero Roof Iron Man Area > Hero Roof Boulder
 363
V0 4 Boulder
Robinson's Rubber Tester Cave Area > Robinson's Rubber Tes…
 119
V0 4 Boulder
Buttermilk Stem Buttermilk Stem… > Buttermilk Stem Boulder
 254
V1 5 Boulder
The Hunk Hunk
 167
V2 5+ Boulder
King Tut Tut Boulder
 198
V3 6A Boulder
Birthday Direct Birthday Boulders
 234
V3 6A Boulder
Funky Tut Tut Boulder
 205
V3 6A Boulder
Bowling Pin Bowling Pin Boulder
 149
V4 6B Boulder
Iron Man Traverse Iron Man Area > Iron Man Boulder
 309
V4 6B Boulder
Bowling Pin Sit Bowling Pin Boulder
 78
V6- 7A Boulder
Saigon Saigon Boulder
 78
V6 7A Boulder
Green Wall Center Green Wall Boulder
 96
V6 7A Boulder
High Plains Drifter Drifter/Smoking Boulder
 164
V7 7A+ Boulder
Soul Slinger Cave Area > Soul Slinger Boulder
 77
V9 7C Boulder
Southwest Arete Peabody Boulders > Grandma Peabody Boulder
 92
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Buttermilks Main »

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Photos

Mike D
Boulder, CO
Mike D   Boulder, CO
Thinking about this makes me miss the 'Milks. It's been a while since I've climbed there. I drank my first ever beer while camped under Grandpa Peabody, and this was my first bouldering specific road trip back in 1997 for Spring Break!

But yeah, times, and rules have changed. Back in those days you were lucky if you saw a few other people with pads out there. Dec 26, 2016