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Areas in Buttermilks Main

Bachar Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Birthday Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Bowling Pin Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Boy and Girl Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Buttermilk Stem Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Buttocks/Smooth Shrimp Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Cave Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Corner Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Drifter/Smoking Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Fit Homeless Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Green Wall Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Grovel Roof Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hunk, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Iron Man Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Iron Man East Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Loaf, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lower Smoking Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mandala/Pope's Prow Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Peabody Boulders 2 / 0 / 1 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Peewee Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pinch Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pope's Hat 3 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Ranger Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Roadside Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Saigon Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sharma Traverse Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Stained Glass/Flyboy Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sunshine Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Tut Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Upside Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Womb Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.

This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.


* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *


Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.


Getting There

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).


211 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buttermilks Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
Robinson's Rubber Tester
Boulder
V0 4
Hero Roof
Boulder
V1 5
Buttermilk Stem
Boulder
V2 5+
Green Wall Essential
Boulder
V2 5+
The Prow
Boulder
V2 5+
The Hunk
Boulder
V3 6A
King Tut
Boulder
V3 6A
Birthday Direct
Boulder
V3 6A
Funky Tut
Boulder
V4 6B
Bowling Pin
Boulder
V4 6B
Iron Man Traverse
Boulder
V5 6C
Go Granny Go
Boulder
V5 6C
Flyboy Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
High Plains Drifter
Boulder
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Southwest Arete
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Robinson's Rubber Tester Cave Area > Robinson's Rubber Tester Boulder V0 4 Boulder
Hero Roof Iron Man Area > Hero Roof Boulder V0 4 Boulder
Buttermilk Stem Buttermilk Stem Area > Buttermilk Stem Boulder V1 5 Boulder
Green Wall Essential Green Wall Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
The Prow Birthday Boulders V2 5+ Boulder
The Hunk Hunk V2 5+ Boulder
King Tut Tut Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Birthday Direct Birthday Boulders V3 6A Boulder
Funky Tut Tut Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Bowling Pin Bowling Pin Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Iron Man Traverse Iron Man Area > Iron Man Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Go Granny Go Peabody Boulders > Grandma Peabody Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Flyboy Arete Stained Glass/Flyboy Area V5 6C Boulder
High Plains Drifter Drifter/Smoking Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
Southwest Arete Peabody Boulders > Grandma Peabody Boulder 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Buttermilks Main »

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Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
Thinking about this makes me miss the 'Milks. It's been a while since I've climbed there. I drank my first ever beer while camped under Grandpa Peabody, and this was my first bouldering specific road trip back in 1997 for Spring Break!

But yeah, times, and rules have changed. Back in those days you were lucky if you saw a few other people with pads out there. Dec 26, 2016
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
Please don't camp at the boulders or near the parking areas! There is great camping just 100 yards across the road, up or down buttermilk road. Fires and broken glass suck to clean up after you have left. Camping at the parking area detracts from the view and overall experience others have as well as taking up parking spots forcing others to park on the scrub further deteriorating the area.

TAMPON APPLICATORS ARE NOT BIODEGRADABLE!!! STAY AT THE GYM. Sep 27, 2010

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