Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 37.328, -118.576 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 602,726 total · 3,797/month
Shared By: AWinters on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.

This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.

* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *

Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.

Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'

Getting There

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).

Please don't walk here.

277 Total Climbs

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Location: Buttermilks Main Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Buttermilks Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 478
Hero Roof
Boulder
V1 5
 334
Buttermilk Stem
Boulder
V2 5+
 103
Sheepherder
Boulder
V2 5+
 254
The Hunk
Boulder
V2 5+
 106
Monkey Dihedral
Boulder
V4 6B
 215
Bowling Pin
Boulder
V4 6B
 411
Iron Man Traverse
Boulder
V5 6C
 93
Leary/Bard Arete
Boulder
V6- 7A
 120
Bowling Pin Sit
Boulder
V6 7A
 98
Saigon
Boulder
V6 7A
 142
Green Wall Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 221
High Plains Drifter
Boulder
V8- 7B
 75
Flyboy SDS
Boulder
V9 7C
 111
Soul Slinger
Boulder
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 119
Southwest Arete
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hero Roof Iron Man Area > Hero Roof Boulder
 478
V0 4 Boulder
Buttermilk Stem Buttermilk Stem… > Buttermilk Stem Boulder
 334
V1 5 Boulder
Sheepherder Loaf
 103
V2 5+ Boulder
The Hunk Hunk
 254
V2 5+ Boulder
Monkey Dihedral Saigon Boulder
 106
V2 5+ Boulder
Bowling Pin Bowling Pin Boulder
 215
V4 6B Boulder
Iron Man Traverse Iron Man Area > Iron Man Boulder
 411
V4 6B Boulder
Leary/Bard Arete Corner Boulders
 93
V5 6C Boulder
Bowling Pin Sit Bowling Pin Boulder
 120
V6- 7A Boulder
Saigon Saigon Boulder
 98
V6 7A Boulder
Green Wall Center Green Wall Boulder
 142
V6 7A Boulder
High Plains Drifter Drifter/Smoking Boulder
 221
V7 7A+ Boulder
Flyboy SDS Stained Glass/Flyboy…
 75
V8- 7B Boulder
Soul Slinger Cave Area > Soul Slinger Boulder
 111
V9 7C Boulder
Southwest Arete Peabody Boulders > Grandma Peabody Boulder
 119
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Buttermilks Main »

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