Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17,345 total · 122/month
Shared By: Tim Steele on May 2, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

93 Opinions

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This often photographed arete ascends one of the tallest boulders in the country, and is a classic buttermilking experience not to be missed.

Start on the face about 10 feet right of the arete, then trend left to the arete and up to an airy perch. Move right following the lip patina to a memorable rock-over with about 35 feet of air under you.

Now find your way down the backside (more or less North east).


Think about the name folks. On the Grandma Peabody.


There are top-rope anchors if you want. But, the access is a 45 foot 5.6 slab on the other side. Also the down-climb.
The crux is the beginning but the 5.8 friction move at 30+ feet is puckerific! Don't fall. Sep 21, 2008
Because we're dealing with something usually climbed as an onsight freesolo, I feel obligated to throw my opinion into the mix and say that rating this route 5.8+ is a sandbag. The consensus of 5.9+ seems quite fair, but I will add that going up this with a mindset of 5.10- will make it seem easier and much more fun.

Oh, and do you see the spots where patina plates have pulled out? Think about those before yarding fast and desperate on the ones at the rock-over finish. (I was once a stupid youth who put too much stock in what everyone else said, and at the time I would've hopped on this route with a very different 5.8 experience in mind; I speak to such people here.) Oct 22, 2008
Chad N
Central California
Chad N   Central California
really fun climb !

the face at the start feels like 5.9+ then it gets easy. super high and great fun. Mar 23, 2010
Portlandia, OR
SKI Ski   Portlandia, OR
Ha, I remember standing on my buddy's shoulders to get off the ground here. Oct 12, 2010
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+ X
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+ X
I'd like to echo D-storm's comment...

Approach it with some strong mental fortitude not to fall at 5.9/5.10-. May 11, 2014
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
the friction move out right onto the glassy patina is definitely puckerific! Nov 28, 2016
Ross Hill
Bishop, Ca
Ross Hill   Bishop, Ca
great arete on classic boulder. this is a 5.9 free solo (think jtree 5.9). there are flakes on it that will break one day. tread carefully if you choose to climb this and limit extreme forces to these holds. Oct 19, 2017
First day of the new year climb

youtube.com/watch?v=HBMEILT… Jan 17, 2018