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Routes in Buttermilk Stem Boulder

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,512 total, 89/month
Shared By: AWinters on Mar 29, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A must-do for the Buttermilks visitor.

Stand-start with wide palms and make a tricky first move to get your right foot on (crux). Stem your way up to the good fin and jugs to the easy but great top-out.

Sit-start is considered v4 and requires some creativity/funk.

Location

South face of the Buttermilk Stem Boulder, right side.

Protection

Pads
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
 
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
 
This route is sure to infuriate any climber with an ego. It took me 3 trips (spread out across a few years) to get up this one despite climbing well above the grade, very humbling experience. Sep 7, 2016
Phil Chai
Austin, TX
 
Phil Chai   Austin, TX
 
Did both the stand and the sit-start. So classic... May 8, 2014
Ray Davalos
Encinitas, CA
Ray Davalos   Encinitas, CA
3 years later.... Did the sit! Nov 12, 2013
cbtacy
 
cbtacy  
 
The sit is a classic illustration of a local sandbag.

Once someone shows you the beta and you get the moves dialed - it actually is, in fact, only V4. But I've watched folks who climb V10 onsight struggle with this puppy.

The best part? It's actually GREAT climbing. Aug 11, 2013
Brian Horlick
Laramie, WY
Brian Horlick   Laramie, WY
Tricky for the short! I found that a drop knee helped a lot in bringing up the right foot. Mar 24, 2013
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Jackie Trejo  
 
Hardest v1 ever! Short beta requires strong stem at the base with a tiny foot crystal for the left and a hand/foot match with the right. Trust the right foot and press it out until you catch the decent side pull. Jugs and jugy pintches from then on. Feb 19, 2012
Ray Davalos
Encinitas, CA
Ray Davalos   Encinitas, CA
im right there with ya man Dec 28, 2010
For the life of me, I can not figure out how to do the SDS.. ? Sep 21, 2008