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Buttermilk Stem

V1, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 444 votes
FA: unknown
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Buttermilk Country > Buttermilks Main > Buttermilk Stem… > Buttermilk Stem Boulder

Description

A must-do for the Buttermilks visitor.

Stand-start with wide palms and make a tricky first move to get your right foot on (crux). Stem your way up to the good fin and jugs to the easy but great top-out.

Sit-start is considered v4 and requires some creativity/funk.

Location

South face of the Buttermilk Stem Boulder, right side.

Protection

Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Buttermilk Stem (V1)
[Hide Photo] Buttermilk Stem (V1)
'Buttermilk Stem Boulder', South face Topo.
[Hide Photo] 'Buttermilk Stem Boulder', South face Topo.
Xander's first send in the milks
[Hide Photo] Xander's first send in the milks
Getting established on Buttermilk Stem
[Hide Photo] Getting established on Buttermilk Stem
Bryan getting his stem on
[Hide Photo] Bryan getting his stem on
Buttermilk Stem
[Hide Photo] Buttermilk Stem
Seth working his way up the Stem
[Hide Photo] Seth working his way up the Stem
Me trying to kick off the ground with my terrible beta. Photo by dad
[Hide Photo] Me trying to kick off the ground with my terrible beta. Photo by dad
Hardest v1 ever!!! Working out the kincks in the starter beta to the side pull.<br>
<br>
(Jackie Trejo)
[Hide Photo] Hardest v1 ever!!! Working out the kincks in the starter beta to the side pull. (Jackie Trejo)
Buttermilk Stem
[Hide Photo] Buttermilk Stem
Jesse getting his stem game on before the storm hits
[Hide Photo] Jesse getting his stem game on before the storm hits

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] For the life of me, I can not figure out how to do the SDS.. ? Sep 21, 2008
Ray Davalos
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] im right there with ya man Dec 28, 2010
Jackie Lukianov
Broomfield
 
[Hide Comment] Hardest v1 ever! Short beta requires strong stem at the base with a tiny foot crystal for the left and a hand/foot match with the right. Trust the right foot and press it out until you catch the decent side pull. Jugs and jugy pintches from then on. Feb 19, 2012
Andy L
 
[Hide Comment] Tricky for the short! I found that a drop knee helped a lot in bringing up the right foot. Mar 24, 2013
cbtacy
 
[Hide Comment] The sit is a classic illustration of a local sandbag.

Once someone shows you the beta and you get the moves dialed - it actually is, in fact, only V4. But I've watched folks who climb V10 onsight struggle with this puppy.

The best part? It's actually GREAT climbing. Aug 11, 2013
Ray Davalos
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] 3 years later.... Did the sit! Nov 12, 2013
Phil Chai
Austin, TX
 
[Hide Comment] Did both the stand and the sit-start. So classic... May 8, 2014
Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or
 
[Hide Comment] This route is sure to infuriate any climber with an ego. It took me 3 trips (spread out across a few years) to get up this one despite climbing well above the grade, very humbling experience. Sep 7, 2016
Ashley Swenson
Pasadena, CA