All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Buttermilk Country > Buttermilks Main > Peabody Boulders > Grandpa Peabody Boulder
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Boulder, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||2,643 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Jan 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Want to really blur the line between bouldering and free soloing? Look no further than this route on the south face of this behemoth. Once bolted (you can still see some of the holes), this is now a toprope/solo. The crux is probably in the first 15 feet, pulling between decent edges, but the scare factor only increases the higher you go as the rock quality decreases. Crank past the edges, climb up and slightly left past a hueco via somewhat crumbly rock, mantle onto the slab and forge ahead solidly into the 'no fall' zone. From here the route/problem is definitely not entirely over and some of the rock is highly suspect. Trend a bit left and continue up the slab. Tread lightly: the questionable rock makes this a pretty serious undertaking!
This route is around the corner to the right of the steep face that has Lucid Dreaming, Evilution and the V13 crimp thing (Blood Meridian) that doesn't top out (yet). It starts on some hollow looking edges (stand on pads) and goes more or less straight up to a large hueco. From here, go up and left and mantle onto a large edge. Trend left and then more or less straight up. Downclimb the Advanced Rockcraft Arete (make sure you know where this is, because I didn't and accidentally downclimbed the East Arete, which is a little bit harder and more serious).
Crash pads and a cool head. It might be worth toproping this first (there is at least one bolted anchor on top of the boulder) unless you're into soloing. There was some dicey rock up high and the slab was more sustained than I was expecting. In fact, I would give this *** when climbed with a toprope.
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