Type: Boulder, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 3,941 total · 37/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jan 8, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Want to really blur the line between bouldering and free soloing? Look no further than this route on the south face of this behemoth. Once bolted (you can still see some of the holes), this is now a toprope/solo. The crux is probably in the first 15 feet, pulling between decent edges, but the scare factor only increases the higher you go as the rock quality decreases. Crank past the edges, climb up and slightly left past a hueco via somewhat crumbly rock, mantle onto the slab and forge ahead solidly into the 'no fall' zone. From here the route/problem is definitely not entirely over and some of the rock is highly suspect. Trend a bit left and continue up the slab. Tread lightly: the questionable rock makes this a pretty serious undertaking!

Location

This route is around the corner to the right of the steep face that holds the more renowned problems on the boulder. It starts on some hollow looking edges (stand on pads) and goes more or less straight up to a large hueco. From here, go up and left and mantle onto a large edge. Trend left and then more or less straight up. Downclimb the Advanced Rockcraft Arete.

Protection

Crash pads for the crux beginning and a cool head for the rest. It might be worth toproping this first as there was some dicey rock up high and the slab was more sustained than I was expecting. In fact, I would give this *** when climbed with a toprope.

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