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Routes in Grandpa Peabody Boulder

Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 X
Ambrosia V11 8A X
Cave Problem V4 6B
Evilution V12-13 8B R
Footprints V9 7C X
Lucid Dreaming V15 8C
Rastaman Vibration V12 8A+
Transporter Room 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V5 6C X
Type: Boulder, 45 ft
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 1,927 total, 32/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jan 8, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Want to really blur the line between bouldering and free soloing? Look no further than this route on the south face of this behemoth. Once bolted (you can still see some of the holes), this is now a toprope/solo. The crux is probably in the first 15 feet, pulling between decent edges, but the scare factor only increases the higher you go as the rock quality decreases. Crank past the edges, climb up and slightly left past a hueco via somewhat crumbly rock, mantle onto the slab and forge ahead solidly into the 'no fall' zone. From here the route/problem is definitely not entirely over and some of the rock is highly suspect. Trend a bit left and continue up the slab. Tread lightly: the questionable rock makes this a pretty serious undertaking!

Location

This route is around the corner to the right of the steep face that has Lucid Dreaming, Evilution and the V13 crimp thing (Blood Meridian) that doesn't top out (yet). It starts on some hollow looking edges (stand on pads) and goes more or less straight up to a large hueco. From here, go up and left and mantle onto a large edge. Trend left and then more or less straight up. Downclimb the Advanced Rockcraft Arete (make sure you know where this is, because I didn't and accidentally downclimbed the East Arete, which is a little bit harder and more serious).

Protection

Crash pads and a cool head. It might be worth toproping this first (there is at least one bolted anchor on top of the boulder) unless you're into soloing. There was some dicey rock up high and the slab was more sustained than I was expecting. In fact, I would give this *** when climbed with a toprope.

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
True: the other two lines are The Elevator and ZAP. The former starts left of Transporter Room and climbs through a hueco closer to the ground before joining Transporter Room for the finish; the latter shares The Elevator's start and branches out left. Apparently it is much harder up high (V9). bishopbouldering.blogspot.c… Jan 13, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
I believe the V13 crimpy thing is called Blood Meridian. A few people have been working on topping it out... Also there are a few other lines between Blood Meridian and Transporter Room: dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…


Dan on Blood Meridian Jan 11, 2013
The 2nd ascent of Transporter was likely by Kevin Daniels in 2010: bishopbouldering.blogspot.c… (see comments section) Jan 10, 2013
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Oops. I called it Teleporter Room by mistake; fixed! There's a great post from Kevin Jorgeson about his ascent of this route on his blog at kjorgeson.blogspot.com/2011… that has a good story about the first ascent of the route. Jan 8, 2013