Type: Boulder, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,986 total · 108/month
Shared By: Ben Parsons on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

For many, this is the perfect highball. Located on the iconic Grandpa Peabody Boulder, the physical crux is, for most, pulling onto Grandpa from a smaller boulder. The mental crux for many is the last pull over on to the top. After getting established on Grandpa, traverse right and then shoot up via immaculate crimps. Incredible!

Location

On the backside of the Granda Peabody boulder, to the right of Ambrosia. Scramble up a small boulder, then step from this to the Grandpa. Once established, traverse slightly right and then head up the slab. Follow the holds, take your time, and be careful to not get off-route. This is also the easiest down climb on the boulder.

Protection

If you're not solid at soloing 5.9, have a friend lead up to and set up a top rope. Most of the time it's done as a solo.

Photos

Mike Brady
Van Diesel, OR
  5.10a V0 X
Mike Brady   Van Diesel, OR
  5.10a V0 X
While it should be obvious it should be noted that this serves as the downclimb as well. Jan 4, 2016
Tim Iwako
Davis, CA
  5.9 V0 X
Tim Iwako   Davis, CA
  5.9 V0 X
Good climb if you want an intro to what soloing is like. Definitely a fair bit harder if you're vertically challenged. Bring your slab shoes and your A game if you're not used to getting high. Apr 29, 2018