Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Grandpa Peabody Boulder

Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 X
Ambrosia V11 8A X
Cave Problem V4 6B
Evilution V12-13 8B R
Footprints V9 7C X
Lucid Dreaming V15 8C
Rastaman Vibration V12 8A+
Transporter Room 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V5 6C X
Type: Boulder, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,830 total, 123/month
Shared By: Ben Parsons on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

For many, this is the perfect highball. Located on the iconic Grandpa Peabody Boulder, the physical crux is, for most, pulling onto Grandpa from a smaller boulder. The mental crux for many is the last pull over on to the top. After getting established on Grandpa, traverse right and then shoot up via immaculate crimps. Incredible!

Location

On the backside of the Granda Peabody boulder, to the right of Ambrosia. Scramble up a small boulder, then step from this to the Grandpa. Once established, traverse slightly right and then head up the slab. Follow the holds, take your time, and be careful to not get off-route. This is also the easiest down climb on the boulder.

Protection

If you're not solid at soloing 5.9, have a friend lead up to and set up a top rope. Most of the time it's done as a solo.

Photos

Mike Brady
Van Diesel, OR
  5.10a V0 X
Mike Brady   Van Diesel, OR
  5.10a V0 X
While it should be obvious it should be noted that this serves as the downclimb as well. Jan 4, 2016