Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Broughton Bluff

Select Area...
(1) North Face 
(2) Hanging Gardens 
(3) Red Wall 
(4) Spring Rock 
(5) Bat Wall 
(6) Berlin Wall 
(7) Jungle Cliff 
(8) New Frontier 

Broughton Bluff  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.5414, -122.38 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 102,022
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Forecast:
Today

59-90°F
Sun

62-95°F
Mon

65-94°F
Tue

62-92°F
Wed

59-95°F
Thu

62-92°F
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...

Description 

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There 

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

77 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',12],['5.10',23],['5.11',13],['5.12',18],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broughton Bluff:
Edges and Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   (2) Hanging Gardens
The Sickle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Gandalf's Grip   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   (1) North Face
Classic Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   (3) Red Wall
Sheer Stress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   (3) Red Wall
Red Eye   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   (3) Red Wall
Superstition   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Physical Graffiti   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Lost Boys   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Gorilla Love Affair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   (7) Jungle Cliff
Critical Mass   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Red Wall
Pinhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Kashmir   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Dracula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Closet Nazi   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   (6) Berlin Wall
Bloodline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   (5) Bat Wall
Bad Omen   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Manson Family Reunion   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   (5) Bat Wall
Bela Lugosi   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Dark Tower   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 102'   (1) North Face
Browse More Classics in Broughton Bluff

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff
Kashmir

Kashmir 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : (3) Red Wall
Linked up with Thai Stick or Classic Crack and then Red Eye, Kashmir offers a long route with a good pump. Not extremely difficult for the grade, it offers good position and great moves on the beautiful orange buttress....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Broughton Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Kashmir    Red Wall, Broughton Bluff
Kashmir Red Wall, Broughton Bluff
Red Wall, left side
Red Wall, left side
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff

Comments on Broughton Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006
Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.
By doggy
Sep 9, 2008
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.
By judee
Apr 5, 2014
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!