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Broughton Bluff

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(1) North Face 
(2) Hanging Gardens 
(3) Red Wall 
(4) Spring Rock 
(5) Bat Wall 
(6) Jungle Cliff 
Berlin Wall 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Broughton Bluff  


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Location: 45.5414, -122.38 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 65,206
Administrators: Nate Ball, Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Forecast:
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Kashmir

Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Description 

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but is difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There 

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

Climbing Season

Traffic By Month

68 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',12],['5.10',19],['5.11',11],['5.12',15],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broughton Bluff:
The Sickle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Edges and Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Traffic Court   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 42'   (1) North Face
Classic Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   (3) Red Wall
Gandalf's Grip   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   (1) North Face
Sheer Stress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   (3) Red Wall
Red Eye   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   (3) Red Wall
Superstition   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Physical Graffiti   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Gorilla Love Affair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   (6) Jungle Cliff
Lost Boys   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Critical Mass   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Red Wall
Pinhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Bloodline   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 80'   (5) Bat Wall
Dracula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Kashmir   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Bad Omen   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Bela Lugosi   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Manson Family Reunion   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   (5) Bat Wall
Dark Tower   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 102'   (1) North Face
Browse More Classics in Broughton Bluff

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff
Kathryn on pitch 1 just before sunset.

Gandalf's Grip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  OR : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face
This stunning line is one of the longest and best climbs at Broughton. The climb is on the north face, facing the Columbia river and can be seen from highway 84. It is usually done in 3 pitches but can be done as one pitch with a 60m rope if long runners are used.Pitch 1: 5.9 The climb starts up a steep crack and then angles left onto the face through a few bolts. Continue up through a small roof (crux) and onto an angled ledge and a 3 bolt belay. Pitch 2: 5.8 Continue up a right facing dih...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Local Information for Broughton Bluff
Photos of Broughton Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in humid summer conditions. I was surprisd by the excellence of this crag, especially the 5.10 and 5.11 on the Red Wall.  Close to the airport, Columbia River Gorge, and a bunch of skiable volcanoes too.  Morning shade is best when the heat is on.
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
Red Wall, left side
Red Wall, left side

Comments on Broughton Bluff Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2014
By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006
Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.
By Bryson Slothower
Aug 19, 2007
any info on the newer bolted line left of Traffic Court? 1st pitch felt 5.9 but the upper pitch looks hard...??
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Aug 13, 2008
It is called Dark Tower.
By doggy
Sep 9, 2008
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 29, 2009
I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.
By Brianwookie
Jun 19, 2012
I lost a mens wedding band here. If you find one in this area, please contact me.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 18, 2013
NEED HELP LOCATING A LOST NIKON COOLPIX CAMERA AT BROUGHTON BLUFF. LAST SEEN NEAR THE RESTROOM AND WATER SPIGGET. THE CAMERA IS IN BLACK LEATHER POUCH, INSIDE A BLACK LOWE PRO ZIPPERED CASE. Last seen Wednesday afternoon, July 17.......the last photo was of the poison oak sign near the steps. REWARD!!!!
By judee
Apr 5, 2014
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff.
By Trent Williams Jr
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 19, 2014
I was wondering if anyone knows what group was at this crag today? My wife and her friend were there early afternoon and a large group had placed signs for a meet up. They had taken control of all the top rope set ups and my wife and her friend weren't able to get any climbing in today.

Apart from that it sounds like there were many inexperienced climbers there. My wife saw people belaying improperly and another climber fell quite a ways on 'The Hammer' and he was pretty spooked after that.

I just can't imagine any group I know of that would behave this way. It sounds like they weren't following even the basic ethics that most climbers are taught from early on. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.