Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.
Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but is difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.
Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.
This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall. Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor. Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.
NEED HELP LOCATING A LOST NIKON COOLPIX CAMERA AT BROUGHTON BLUFF. LAST SEEN NEAR THE RESTROOM AND WATER SPIGGET. THE CAMERA IS IN BLACK LEATHER POUCH, INSIDE A BLACK LOWE PRO ZIPPERED CASE. Last seen Wednesday afternoon, July 17.......the last photo was of the poison oak sign near the steps. REWARD!!!!
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff.
I was wondering if anyone knows what group was at this crag today? My wife and her friend were there early afternoon and a large group had placed signs for a meet up. They had taken control of all the top rope set ups and my wife and her friend weren't able to get any climbing in today.
Apart from that it sounds like there were many inexperienced climbers there. My wife saw people belaying improperly and another climber fell quite a ways on 'The Hammer' and he was pretty spooked after that.
I just can't imagine any group I know of that would behave this way. It sounds like they weren't following even the basic ethics that most climbers are taught from early on. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.