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Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Supposedly Fun Climb I'll Never Climb Again TR 
Atkilt Tera S 
Austerity Measures S 
Chigger Yellem T 
Coffee Ceremony S 
Cracked Wheat T,S 
Enkefet S 
Galatoma T 
Giorgis '64 S 
Jegna Aymotem T 
Oysters Nuts T 
Poroto Gringo S 
Sheba's Glory S 
Solomon's Revenge T 
Tara Gaga T 
Techewat S 
Tenish Tenish S 
Wendemé S 
Weyne Gude S 

Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 9.08768, 38.79739 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,197
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nicojah on Apr 12, 2013
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Description 

Ethiopia's first Sport Climbing Crag, Amora Gedel (Hawk's Cliff) is nearly 500 meters wide and 60 meters high and has very easy access from Addis Ababa. The rock is basalt and offers sport, mixed and traditional climbs as well. All routes published here have bolted anchors, some have chains, some have rope anchors. See each route description for more info.

The entire cliff is in the shade after midday, and the quality of the rock is high with few broken pieces and weak flakes. There are some plants growing on the rock as well as lichen, but as the rock sees more traffic, the plants will disappear.

There is a small village called Kile above the cliff (20 minute vertical hike from the climbs) where climbers can camp with a local family for 40 birr per tent. The village has access to clean water from a nearby well and pump. In Kile, climbers can also purchase local bread (injera), bottled beer, and other delights.

Please respect the local community, and stay on the trails as the farmers are growing wheat in the field at the foot of the wall. As more and more people visit this crag, the locals will become more in tune with rock climbing. Donating old equipment is a fine way to support their interest to safely climb their own walls, however please donate equipment that is secure, especially when it comes to harnesses & ropes.

In 2015, the group Rock Climbers, Ethiopia established a system with one particular farmer whose land is at the base of the wall. Each climber pays 10 birr to Alemayu. Since he lives up on top, some times the money is picked up by one of his children. For climbers visiting Amora Gedel for the first time with no guide, it might be best to hike up to the village on top of the cliff before climbing.

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. For more info about this wall and other climbing spots around Ethiopia, contact me at nico.parco@gmail.com.

Getting There 

Go to the Farensay neighborhood in the northeast quadrant of Addis Ababa. Take the Farensay road all the way to the end, where minibuses, mid-sized buses and taxis are waiting in a dirt plaza. (This is your last chance to buy fruit, bread, etc.) Turn left and begin driving up the mountain. After a few hundred meters, you will go beyond the houses of the city on a windy dirt road and be surrounded by eucalyptus trees. Stay left when the road forks at a small rock quarry/gravel production. Continue up the road, at the top of the first hill, you can leave the main road which bends left, and go straight through another opening in the middle of an old quarry. Here you can park or continue straight through the work site another 300 meters on a road with pretty bad cobbles. If you continue, park at the bend in front of a small creek. From this point expect to walk for at least 30 minutes to get to the base of the cliff.

(If you take a taxi you may have to walk from the bus and taxi dirt plaza below. If so, expect about 2+ km more walking to get to the above described parking)

On foot, continue walking up the road. As you gain elevation, you might see what appears to be a very big cliff straight in front of you. I say MIGHT because these are eucalyptus forests and whether or not they are felled you will see what you see... Anyway Amora Gedel is literally straight ahead up the valley 1.5km. The rock faces east. There are two trails, the main one that goes to the top of the cliff up to the village Kile, and the other to the bottom. Please walk around farmers' plots and respect the locals' animals.

In 2013, taxi prices from the Bole Airport area are some 200 birr to the bus/taxi plaza and you can usually negotiate about 150 birr back to Bole. If you're taking the taxi, you can try to hitch hike up the mountain.

The dirt road that bends left also leads up to Kile village in a roundabout way. The road was regraded in 2015 and is in pretty good shape. Continue past the road that leads down to Gabriel Church and park next to someone's house. From there, walk east to the obvious cliff top, and you're still looking at 20 minutes to get to the base, but you can easily find Alemayu the farmer and buy beer!

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa):
Tenish Tenish   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)

Featured Route For Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
Cracked Wheat (on the right).

Cracked Wheat 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
Cracked Wheat is the first mixed route bolted on Armora Gedel and called thus due to the farmer's wheat stalks that were growing at the base of the and lightly stomped over on the route's first ascent (by toprope).This route, from a climbing perspective, may be considered the most complete route at Armora Gedel due to its many styles of climbing over high quality rock. Here you will try all types of moves, power, balance and stretch. P1: This pitch is harder than the next pitch and requires pul...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) Slideshow Add Photo
Pure Beauty!
Pure Beauty!
Sizin' up the wall.
Sizin' up the wall.
A panorama of Armora Gedel.
A panorama of Armora Gedel.
Nico & Matt considering the cliff size of Enkefet
Nico & Matt considering the cliff size of Enkefet
Left climber on Oyster Nuts, the dude on the right...
Left climber on Oyster Nuts, the dude on the right...
Sizin' up the Cliff.
Sizin' up the Cliff.
Climber on toprope going up Tara Gaga
Climber on toprope going up Tara Gaga
Bolting in Ethiopia.
Bolting in Ethiopia.
Climber on Enkefet (5.11+) on Armora Gedel.
Climber on Enkefet (5.11+) on Armora Gedel.
Part of the test crew!
Part of the test crew!
For full PDF topo contact nico.parco@gmail.com
For full PDF topo contact nico.parco@gmail.com
Local boys, future climbers!
Local boys, future climbers!

Comments on Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 8, 2013
Interestingly, this seems reminiscent of North Table Mountain in Golden, Colorado...but it seems bigger.
By James Garrett
Nov 15, 2014
It is crimp city on vegetated and licheny holds on generally sound basalt. The approach is longer than 15 minutes and it is crucial to take along some locals who will dissuade the cute kids from tossing rocks off the top. Don't even think about climbing here without a helmet unless you have someone on top controlling the rock toss competition by local kids. Though this is addis ababa, this is "out in the country side" compared to Addis. Expect extremely sporty bolt spacing.
By nicojah
From: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Nov 25, 2014
In 2+ years there has been only one incident of rock throwing. Let's not generalize. The crag is safe, villagers are friendly. Having somebody who can speak a little bit of the language is always helpful. Melkam Climbing!!!
By James Garrett
Nov 25, 2014
The rock tossing comment is meant for any climbers visiting that are new to the area and not fluent in Amaric as Nico is. Rocks are more common than once in 2+ years, for sure, unfortunately.
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