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Routes in Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)

A Supposedly Fun Climb I'll Never Climb Again TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Africa T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Almaz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anbessa S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Atkilt Tera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austerity Measures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Basque Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battle of Adwa T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Donkey Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chigger Yellem S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffee Break is Over, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Coffee Ceremony S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cracked Wheat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Easy Eshi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feral Warp Wolf T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Galatoma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giorgis '64 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Habesha S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jegna Aymotem S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Liger Army S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Smoking S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oysters Nuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poroto Gringo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powered by Injera S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sau Hund (Asema Wusha) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sheba's Glory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Solomon's Revenge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Tara Gaga T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tenish Tenish S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wendemé S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weyne Gude S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
You Don't Mess with the Zohan S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nicojah
Page Views: 464 total, 8/month
Shared By: nicojah Parco on May 8, 2013
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Description

Cracked Wheat was the first route bolted at the wall and called thus due to the farmer's wheat stalks that were growing at the base of the wall and lightly stomped over on the route's first ascent (by toprope).

This route, from a climbing perspective, has many styles of climbing over high quality rock. Here you will try all types of moves, power, balance and stretch.

P1: This pitch is harder than the next pitch and requires pulling on slopers, small edges and careful balance. The first pitch is a sustained 5.10+ climbing with several cruxes throughout. I added 2 more bolts in 2015 to make it completely sport.

P2: Continue climbing the face of the pillar until reaching the top. Here you will see the 2nd bolt on the main face of the wall which requires stepping from the pillar onto the face and climbing over a tricky roof. Afterwards, the climbing is easy and there is a long crack for gear, then a couple bolts until the next crux where small edges and hidden sidepulls get you to the top.

Location

This route is to the right of Oysters Nuts and starts on an orange face with several cracks. This climb is left of a large gully with lots of trees and plant life. You can't miss the first bolt 3 meters off the ground.

Protection

P1: 9 bolts.
P2: 6 bolts. On this pitch there is a place for a small cam that will kill the run out. But the 5.9 sections of the rout are all bolt protected.

There are two bolt anchors with quicklinks at the top of each pitch.

Photos

nicojah Parco
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
 
nicojah Parco   Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
 
Thanks James G! Great climb, amiright? Nov 23, 2015
First pitch belay location moved up and chain anchors placed. Now the rope avoids a sharp edge. Steep!! Nov 19, 2015