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Routes in Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)

A Supposedly Fun Climb I'll Never Climb Again TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Africa T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Almaz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anbessa S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Atkilt Tera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austerity Measures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Basque Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battle of Adwa T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Donkey Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chigger Yellem S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffee Break is Over, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Coffee Ceremony S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cracked Wheat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Easy Eshi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feral Warp Wolf T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Galatoma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giorgis '64 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Habesha S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jegna Aymotem S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Liger Army S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Smoking S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oysters Nuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poroto Gringo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powered by Injera S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sau Hund (Asema Wusha) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sheba's Glory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Solomon's Revenge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Tara Gaga T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tenish Tenish S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wendemé S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weyne Gude S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
You Don't Mess with the Zohan S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nicojah
Page Views: 417 total · 7/month
Shared By: nicojah Parco on Apr 12, 2013
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Description

Armora Gedel's most popular trad climb. Climbers need a full rack for Oyster Nuts. The climb starts 2 meters left of Cracked Wheat and angles diagonal left through a series of vertical crack systems. Though the foto shows a lot of plants, there really are no longer any plants on the line itself. It has been cleaned by the people who put up the line and has been climbed dozens of times.

The first pitch usually ends at a two bolt anchor, some 20m from the ground. If you plant to climb the second pitch there is another anchor about 5m higher, climber's left and up, on a big ledge with grass and plants every which way.

The first pitch is sustained 5.9 climbing with no serious crux and has plenty of protection on high quality basalt for all types of gear.

The second pitch follows an obvious finger crack on climber's right that leads to a even more obvious, crescent-shaped crack that is sometimes flaring, sometimes perfect hand crack.

Don't miss the 2nd pitch as it's more fun than the 1st and very straight forward, crack-delightful climbing. There are face holds, crack holds and varies sizes of pro throughout.

The name comes from a Norwegian climber who made one of the first ground up ascents at Amora Gedel. At some point below where the anchors are today, he left a couple nuts and came down. Before being cleaned, the line was very hairy with plants and dirt. Adventure climbing in Ethiopia!

Location

Starts to the left of Cracked Wheat. Can either start in an obvious big crack or a little to the right where there are various right-facing cracks and aretes.

Protection

Full rack.

2 bolt anchors with chains.

Photos

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