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Leaping Leaner
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 368
votes
Routes in Locomotion Rock
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Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Edom vs Moab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leaping Leaner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01343, -116.16796 |
| FA: | Tim Powell & Dan Ahlborn, April 1977 |
| Page Views: | 12,447 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
At the far left (north) end of the west face of Locomotion Rock are two slightly left-leaning hand cracks that go from near the ground, up to the top of the rock. The left crack is Jumping Jehosephat and the right crack is Leaping Leaner, to the right.
There are a few ways to start this route. Arguably the easiest and safest way is to start in the chasm to the left of a boulder (as for Jumping Jehosephat). Go up to the top of the boulder, then traverse right, moving a bit up and down as you traverse right. Along the traverse you can place a good piece of gear with a longer sling that allows you to safely reach the main crack of Leaping Leaner. Follow the wonderful, slightly left-leaning hand crack to a stance with rappel anchors. Doing the route this way is probably 5.7.
A more difficult and direct start begins down in the lower level of the chasm. There are a few ways to accomplish this direct start, and the further right you start, the harder it seems. The easiest version of the direct start is roughly 5.8+ PG13.
Many of the comments below pertain to the direct start, which is definitely much harder than the way initially described above.
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