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Der Zerkle
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Absolution (submitted as Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall) S 
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Happy Ending T 
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Knot Carrot S,TR 
New Beginnings T 
Ribspuren T 
Southeast Arete T 
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Sunny Side Two T 
Touch Monkey S,TR 
Two Clucks From Saigon T,TR 
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What If You're Not? T,TR 
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Unsorted Routes:

Touch Monkey 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Johnson, Hank Caylor, Paul Glover
Page Views: 6,795
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 28, 2002  with updates from Carl Schaefer

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Mike Burdon on Touch Monkey.

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  • Description 

    Touch Monkey is another fun little sport climb in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. This route ascends inviting huecos up a slightly bulging face in the Court, an alcove on the S side of Der Zerkle, a short way past Square Rock. From NCAR, hike up the Mallory Cave Trail until this route is visible on your right.

    Power up a fun, slightly overhanging wall with huecos past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is one slightly longer reach mixed in here. Rossiter's guide mentioned a fixed wire that I did not find in situ. Just to the right of this route is another slightly easier, bolted route, Knot Carrot.


    Originally this was protected with 3 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. Years later it was retrobolted to have 5 protection bolts in addition to the two bolt anchor.

    Photos of Touch Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: A free solo of Touch Monkey by Matt Lloyd. Great f...
    A free solo of Touch Monkey by Matt Lloyd. Great f...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Said beginning the short crux of Touch Monkey.  Ph...
    Said beginning the short crux of Touch Monkey. Ph...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason clipping on Touch Monkey.
    Jason clipping on Touch Monkey.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Patty follows Touch Monkey (11b) on Der Zerkle in ...
    Patty follows Touch Monkey (11b) on Der Zerkle in ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Touching the Monkey.
    Touching the Monkey.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan exiting the crux.
    Ryan exiting the crux.

    Comments on Touch Monkey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 7, 2016
    By Scott Hudson
    Dec 20, 2004

    What a shame that someone is messing with the great sport climbs on Dinosaur Mt. So many good climbs that see so little traffic due to the hike. These are all historically significant climbs. Hopefully, there is such a thing as Karma and the chopper(s) will pay for their actions.
    By XOG
    Feb 14, 2005

    As of Feb. 13th Touch Monkey has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.
    By XOG
    Feb 14, 2005

    I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused.
    By Bryan Gartland
    From: Helena, MT
    Apr 5, 2005

    Good to see the new hardware up there but why go to all that work and leave the first ring bolt as is??
    By Cody Munger
    From: Carson City, NV
    Aug 25, 2006

    The first ring bolt is a scary clip. Quite reachy from an awkward stance. A sling can be put around a small horn about 12 feet up from the ground, though it doesn't do much good if you fall during the first clip.
    By Paul Glover
    Sep 7, 2009

    Alternate way to climb Touch Monkey: head left at the third bolt on jugs, then up right off a thin wafer, make a slightly pumpy clip, then head straight up. Better than Touch Monkey. Punch Monkey is 11c/d.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 13, 2011

    The first bolt isn't a ring bolt anymore, but it still seems like it could unclip itself. The bolt is your only stop before the ground, so this is one of the few times I just put two opposing quickdraws on the first bolt. I'm probably just paranoid. WAAAAYYY easier than April Fools, but really fun!
    By George Bracksieck
    Jun 11, 2012

    The second bolt can be clipped from easy ground before your commit to the action.
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Jun 11, 2012

    Do you mean the first bolt,
    By George Bracksieck
    Jun 19, 2013

    Sorry -- I meant the first bolt.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Sep 10, 2014
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I broke a hold around the 2nd bolt yesterday. It's the large undercling... it's gone now. The route still goes at 11b. Sorry for being a large human being.
    By JulianG
    Oct 20, 2014

    Don't fall clipping the third bolt. You will have a good chance to hit the ledge at the beginning of the climb. The best holds to clip the third bolt are 10 of 12 inches to the right and slightly above the bolt.

    The climb is a little awkward especially if you follow all the chalk to the left of the bolts.
    By Justin Skaare
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 25, 2014

    Just FYI, you won't deck if you blow the third bolt. My buddy whipped on an extended runner today (that I suggested against), he's 6'3" and was fine. I wouldn't recommend a soft catch, but it's safe.
    By Jake Dickerson
    From: Lander, WY
    Aug 22, 2015

    I thought this thing was a blast. Hot in the sun though! BTW there are now 5 bolts on it, and it is very easy getting to the first bolt although it may be a little high.
    By boo
    From: Estes Park
    Nov 7, 2016
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    This is a fun route and a great warm-up for the routes at Dinosaur Rock. The current grade is very soft.

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