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North Bald Cap

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a_Main Slab Area 
b_Apron Area 
c_"Last Call" and "CC Arete" Area 
d_" Searching for Gold" Slab 
e_Lost Boys Area 

North Bald Cap  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.46586, -71.06854 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,694
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Feb 17, 2016
Forecast:
Today

63° | 58°
Saturday

76° | 57°
Sunday

72° | 56°
Monday

78° | 58°
Tuesday

79° | 60°
Wednesday

71° | 53°
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BETA PHOTO: North Bald Cap trails. Red to October Sundae and y...

Description 

A very large cliff, 5 or 6 pitches high on the main area(s), although many climbs are only two pitches. The AREAs have a prefix "a_", "b_" so that they sort in left-to-right order.

Mostly reasonable rock, although protection may be sparse and grades may be "old school". Paul Cormier and others have established several routes and there's probably space for more.

Recently the "Chinos" have extensively developed the "Lost Boys Area", a short by steep section of cliff on the far right, and they have graciously shared that information on this site. Thanks! (Both for the development and the sharing!)

Amazingly, you can drive to within 20-30 min's walk of the base of the more "popular" climbs, yet the cliff is rather isolated and the chances of finding anyone else there are remote-to-non-existent!

The most "popular" climb on the Main Slab seems to be "October Sundae", which has double bolt anchors for rapping (dbl 60m ropes) on the top 4 raps and then a final rap off a fixed tree anchor. (There used to be two "tree raps", but the rap tree for the 2nd to last rap has fallen over.)

The "New England" website "NEClimbs.com" has a fair photograph with routes, although the photo suffers from a poor route-numbering-"system".

Getting There 

The GPS co-ordinates for this AREA are currently set for approximately the base of the climb October Sundae.

Take Rt 16 north through Gorham and towards Berlin. When approaching Berlin, bear right onto "Truck Route 16". Go past a nice park on the left, through a traffic light and then the landfill will be on your right. Just beyond the landfill, take a right onto Success Pond Road. Go 4.7-4.8 miles and take the right. Ignore any road to the right at the intersection and go "straight or bear left". Go about 0.3-0.5 mi and take your 1st right, then about a 1/4 mi. furtther take your 1st left for a total of about 0.9mi. to park. [4-wheel drive with good clearance is obviously better, but unless the first 50 yds is wet-and-muddy you should (?!) be able to make this 0.9Mi with a 2-wheel-drive vehicle; the first 50 yds is the worst, then it gets better.]

The cliff should be visible from the parking. (photo)

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in North Bald Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Bald Cap :
October Sundae   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches   a_Main Slab Area
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream to "Orgasmo Slab"    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches   a_Main Slab Area
Ingy's Ice Cream   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   a_Main Slab Area
Fortune Cookies   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   e_Lost Boys Area
Meat & Cookies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 55'   e_Lost Boys Area
Mancation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   e_Lost Boys Area
Blue Steel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   e_Lost Boys Area
A Rope Runs Through It   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   e_Lost Boys Area
Lost Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   e_Lost Boys Area
Flying Moose Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 110'   e_Lost Boys Area
The Stink   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   e_Lost Boys Area
Anniversary Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 95'   e_Lost Boys Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Bald Cap

Featured Route For North Bald Cap
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the Arete Direct

The Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New Hampshire : Great North Woods Region : ... : c_"Last Call" and "CC Arete...
This is a fantastic climb in a beautiful setting. Especially if you are doing the direct variation, which has lots of delicate fun moves with good gear. The exposed arete higher up leads to a nice ledge and double bolt anchor. P1. Start on the very left end of the cliff. Tricky first move leads to bolt and easier terrain. Gain the steeper arete with good gear and climb to the top and 2 bolt anchor. 5.7 120'The Arete DirectDon't know if anyone...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of North Bald Cap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of North Bald Cap
BETA PHOTO: Overview of North Bald Cap
Rock Climbing Photo: This is where you turn off from Success Pond Rd. T...
BETA PHOTO: This is where you turn off from Success Pond Rd. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Bald Cap as seen from The Outlook
BETA PHOTO: North Bald Cap as seen from The Outlook
Rock Climbing Photo: Just beyond stream crossing, Oct. Sundae visible t...
BETA PHOTO: Just beyond stream crossing, Oct. Sundae visible t...
Rock Climbing Photo: S. Matz at the START of October Sundae in spring c...
BETA PHOTO: S. Matz at the START of October Sundae in spring c...
Rock Climbing Photo: the Parking area
the Parking area
Rock Climbing Photo: Right Section of Cliff - from about 20-25 min on t...
BETA PHOTO: Right Section of Cliff - from about 20-25 min on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from parking area
BETA PHOTO: View from parking area
Rock Climbing Photo: "Lost Boys Area" Telephoto - Close-up of...
BETA PHOTO: "Lost Boys Area" Telephoto - Close-up of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side of "Right Section" from about...
BETA PHOTO: Right side of "Right Section" from about...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cairn to mark the beginning of the climbers trail....
BETA PHOTO: Cairn to mark the beginning of the climbers trail....
Rock Climbing Photo: the worst of the road (May 2014)
BETA PHOTO: the worst of the road (May 2014)

Comments on North Bald Cap Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 18, 2016
Jack Dorsey has some more photos and topos here
By chinos
Feb 26, 2016
I will post what I have for the far right lost boys area

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