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Routes in 1. Main Slab Area

Call of the Wild T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ingy's Ice Cream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
October Sundae T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream to "Orgasmo Slab" T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road North, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yowza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 2,016 ft
GPS: 44.465, -71.069 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,094 total · 167/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

This is the main slab. It covers from the far left side of the cliff to the large gully-cleft that slashes from Right to Left down the cliff and which is just left of the Apron.

Be aware that the Rap Tree used for the 2nd-to-last Rap (just beneath the big overhang) on "October Sundae" has toppled over and is no longer usable. It fell over with less than 50lbs force when I sat on it's lower trunk 8/19/16. Slings have been removed, lest someone grab them. The whole tree sits on the ledge with less than 10% of its (rotted) roots in the dirt. Use the double-bolt anchor 25-30 ft to "skier's/viewer's left on the slab. (scramble down, then up to the bolts, Class 3/4 "X" if unroped.)

Routes include (L to R):

More info and terse route descriptions are given in NEClimbs.com

"Spell of the Yukon" (5.7) and "Yowza" (5.9) [both listed as "farthest left at the far left end, and both listed as "climb #4 on a photo]

"Panning for Gold" (5.7)

"October Sundae" (5.7) - see posted route description

"Ingy's Ice Cream" (5.7)

"The Road North...(to Orgasmo Slab)" (5.8)

Located on the main slab, but starting up high on the right are:

"Double Crack" (5.8)

"Gold Fever" (5.7) not shown on the neclimbs.com "topo":

"Call of the Wild" (5.7)

"Battle of the Bulges" (5.7)

Getting There

NOTE: The following has been revised as of Aug 2016. The logging "road/path" is getting overgrown, in places with blackberry brambles...best not to try the approach in shorts! That being said, in Mid-Aug be sure to bring a container to fill on the walk out! Get 'em before the bears do!

From the described parking in the "Getting There" for the whole AREA, walk along a logging road that crosses a few small streams. After about 5-10 min this becomes a path. There are a couple of places the woods have really encroached on it. After about 20-25 min. walking, and just after one of the "encroached" sections look for cairn(s) on the right with a "^"shaped log next to it (photo). This cairn marks the closest approach of the path to the stream and just about the closest approach of the path to the cliff.

Leave the path and turn right at the cairn for only about 25-30 ft to the stream cross the stream and follow the path. This should lead back left a bit and then up right to the cliff. If you lose the path, don't worry you're really close; just climb straight uphill to the base.

[In years past you used to walk up the stream about 100-150 +/- feet to another cairn and then turn right into the woods. This old path seems to have been abandoned due to a huge silver birch falling across a short distance beyond where you turned out of the streambed.]

You should be at, or close to, the base of October Sundae. (photo) For other climbs (photos) move left or right along a faint path near the base.

The first time we went to the cliff we went too far on the path, then had a bushwhack to the cliff that included mossy slabs and steep going, and which put us too far left (south) on the cliff. Note the obvious diagonal of trees that rises from right-to-left on the "Left Section" photo. P1 of Oct. Sundae ends at this ledge, about 140 ft up.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Slab Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
October Sundae
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream…
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ingy's Ice Cream
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
October Sundae 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Road North Start to Ingy's… 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Ingy's Ice Cream 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
beach
Portland, ME
beach   Portland, ME
If you are descending using the center rap line take care when coming over the eyebrow. I believe it is best accomplished by dropping into the notch on the climbers left side of the roof, then tensioning back right to get to the anchor. After tensioning right you can flip your rope out of the notch to pull it. A friend of mine core shot his rope by going straight over the lip, it is very sharp in spots. Nov 6, 2016
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
Use the path () from the parking area to October Sundae. Aug 30, 2016

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