Main Slab Area Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 2,016 ft | 614 m |
GPS: |
44.46531, -71.06876 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 12,897 total · 129/month | |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016 · Updates | |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This is the main slab. It covers from the far left side of the cliff to the large gully-cleft that slashes from Right to Left down the cliff and which is just left of the Apron.
Routes include (L to R, if in bold then listed in MtnPrjct):
More info and terse route descriptions are given in NEClimbs.com
"Spell of the Yukon" (5.7) and "Yowza" (5.9 or 5.7) [both listed as "farthest left at the far left end, and both listed as "climb #4 on a NE Climbs photo]
"Panning for Gold" (5.7)
"October Sundae" (5.7)
" Alpine Experience " (5.7 ) Link-up and new(?) top pitches
"Ingy's Ice Cream" (5.7)
"The Road North...(to Orgasmo Slab)" (5.8)
Located on the main slab, but starting up high on the right are:
"Double Crack" (5.8)
"Gold Fever" (5.7) not shown on the neclimbs.com "topo":
"Call of the Wild" (5.7)
"Battle of the Bulges" (5.7)
Descend - via October Sunday. Paul Cormier describes it (PC's words in italic): It is very simple to just rap straight down the entire cliff on October Sundae. On the 3rd rappel, rap straight down, [at OH "aim" for the fallen birch tree on the ledge] avoiding the overhang on..[the] east end of the overhang. That 2 bolt rap anchor [on DIRECT] is the reason for the shreaded ropes, [it lures people to the right]. Go straight down into the trees, a swath is nicely cut for you, and rap off a new tree anchor.Then ... down again to the first pitch anchor, once again , all nicely cut out
Getting There
NOTE: The following has been revised as of Oct 1, 2023.
The beaver dams are big, and the Old trail is dramatically overgrown and can no longer be recommended There is now a new trail that branches off from the lost boys approach path.
The following is repeated here from the Getting There for the overall area
The GPS co-ordinates for this AREA are currently set for approximately the base of the climb October Sundae.
Directions: Take Rt 16 north through Gorham and towards Berlin. When approaching Berlin, bear right onto "Truck Route 16". Go past a nice park on the left, through a traffic light and past the landfill (on your right.) Just beyond the landfill, take a right onto Success Pond Road. Go 4.7-4.8 miles and take the right.
Revised Oct1, 2023- If you don’t have a high clearance vehicle, then park here, and walk the rough dirt road in front of you for 0.7 miles following the driving directions below to the New Trailhead, then continue on the approach path. With the new, shorter, better approach path walking from here to the base seems to take about the same time as the Old path took from the end of the dirt road 0.9 miles in!
With a high clearance vehicle continue driving the washed-out dirt road directly ahead of you. The first 100 yards or so are the worst! After the 100 yards of really rocky road the road levels out and becomes better. At about 0.6 miles from Success Pond Rd take the very grassy right branch at a “Y” [ Orange flag in 2023]. In about another 0.1 mile ( 0.7 Mi. from Success Pd Rd) at the next “ Y” you have, essentially, reached the New Trailhead. The best parking is at the old trailhead. Continue up the “ main” road ( the left branch) for about 0.2 mile where there’s an easier turnaround and larger parking, then walk back down to the New Trailhead. The is room for one car at the New Trailhead ( I turned and backed into the right-hand branch of the Y.) Do not block the “ main “ road.
New Trail approach. Great path, shorter and quicker. Many thanks to whomever put it it! We will not miss the days of soaking wet pants and shoes caused by crashing through dew-laden brush and tall grass, nor the thorny blackberries; not to mention the ever-enlarging beaver dams!
Walk 50-60 yards on the right branch of the Y until the road ends and you have to hop across the stream on some well-placed rocks. Continue up the opposite bank on a well-trodden and flagged ( 2023) path. ( For now you are on the pre-Covid approach path to the Lost Boys area) In about 5 min you’ll come to a rock cairn, turn right and 40-50 feet later turn left ( well marked with orange flagging). You have now left the Lost Boys path and are on the New Trail. Follow flagging and orange blazes. The path ends at the base of October Sundae after passing a branch path to Road North. TIME: 20 minutes from the “Y”, 40-50 minutes from Success Pond Rd.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Slab Area
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