Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream to "Orgasmo Slab"
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in 1. Main Slab Area
|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||331 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Aug 19, 2016|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionBe aware that the Rap Tree used for the 2nd-to-last Rap on October Sundae (just beneath the big overhang) has toppled over and is no longer usable. It fell over with less than 50lbs force when I sat on it's lower trunk 8/19/16. Slings have been removed, lest someone grab them. The whole tree sits on the ledge with less than 10% of its (rotted) roots in the dirt. Use the double-bolt anchor 25-30 ft to "skier's/viewer's left on the slab. (scramble down, then up to the bolts, Class 3/4 "X" if unroped.) It has been reported that double 60m ropes "just make it" down to these bolts from the anchor above, but with variations in manufacturer's cut rope length and rope shortening ('shrinking') with use take extra care if you try this.
We went in to climb Ingy's Ice Cream and found the "Ingy's" start didn't look anywhere near as "appetizing" as the start to "The Road North" so we took that. (For Ingy's: STARTing at the base of Oct. Sundae hike 30-40 ft right and up, then cut back left and up along the start of the "rising tree ramp" for another 25 ft or so to a slab.)
START (of Road North) From the base of Oct. Sundae take the path up and right about 100 +/- feet to a nice-looking grey slab.
P1- Climb up the slab to the trees. (5.3 - 5.4 100 ft +/-) We belayed here, but it is much better if you continue on 60 ft up and left to a new (2017?) dbl bolt anchor. This allows you to reach the double bolt anchor of Road North on the next pitch. 190-200 +/- ft 5.3 - 5.4
P2- Continue on up along a left-rising diagonal to a double-bolt anchor on Road North which is about 30 ft right, and 20 ft above the top of, the large overhang. 150-180 ft 5.4 - 5.5
P3- (Joining Ingy's) Move up and left and cross above the small tree island onto the tan/Rust-colored slab above. We were a little lost here so set up a gear belay at a bomber vertical crack at the top of the rust-colored slab. 80-100 ft 5.4 The route is supposed to move left here, then up to a gear belay in the "central groove" of the cliff, just below a layback flake leading to a quartz dike.
Variation "P3a-a continuation of P3" - From the semi-hanging belay, we stepped right ("crux" 5.6 ?), then up and back left along slabs and cracks to either a gear belay as mentioned above, or continue traversing left beneath the layback flake and quartz dike to the dbl bolt anchor on October Sundae. 100-120 ft 5.6
P4- From either belay stance, climb the short layback flake and continue on the quartz dike (photo 5.7 +/- PG/PG-13) up onto much easier climbing and a gear belay below the clean white slab. 130 +/- ft 5.7 +/-
P5- Move up to the bolt, climb past it (crux, 5.6 - 5.7) then the slab's angle eases and there's a long run out to cracks. Continue up to a gear belay at the base of the headwall. 5.6 - 5.7 & 5.4R 170+/- ft
P6- Ingy's climbs straight up the headwall to the top. Then hike/thrash left to the anchors at the top of Oct. Sundae.
P6 Variation- We wanted to get to the top of the "Orgasmo Slab", whose anchors we could just barely see off to our right about 15 ft below the top of a "buttress." The plan was to minimize walking in the dense brush at the top of the cliff, so we took the following line: Move up and right on a rising diagonal (photo) topping out at the tree line. 80 +/- ft 5.5 +/- We then bushwhacked 25 ft right (1st 10 ft really thick, bring small saw) and lowered the fist climber to the anchor through the trees (going skier's right of the pine tree is best!) The 2nd then lowered off a tree.
Rap the "Orgasmo Slab" with two ropes to a double bolt anchor just to climber's/rappeller's right of a small bush island! (Even a single 70m doesn't make it!)
"Orgasmo Slab" - Climb directly up the slab past at least one gear placement, to three bolts and gear on the final headwall up the buttress. Put this pitch on Whitehorse and they'd line up at dawn. 4 stars 5.6+ / 5.7- 130 ft FA-er's rated the pitch 5.8. We took about as straight a line over the bolts as one could. Perhaps after standing and drilling 3 bolts on the lead (by hand?) it feels a bit tougher!
One can also reach the base of the slab by doing the first full rap of Oct Sundae, then the 2nd rap to the gear belay at the end of P4 of Ingy's, and then climb up and right to the base of "Orgasmo Slab".
DESCENT- (Updated, Oct 2017) From the double bolt anchor at the base of "Orgasmo Slab", a 2 rope rap down and skier's right (rappeller's left) gets you to the 3rd rap anchor of Oct Sundae. From here rap over the big, sharp overhang or take the new rap line by rapping 140-150ft to skier's/viewer's left to a new station (green cord) about 30-35 ft above the climber's right of the OH. A 2nd new station 120 ft (36-37m) below (also with green cord) gets you to the big tree ledge at the top of Oct Sundae's P1.