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Areas in North Bald Cap

1. Main Slab Area 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
2. Apron Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3. "Last Call" and "CC Arete" Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
4. " Searching for Gold" Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
5. Lost Boys Area 4 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Elevation: 2,005 ft
GPS: 44.466, -71.069 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,809 total · 367/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

A very large cliff, 5 or 6 pitches high on the main area(s), although many climbs are only two pitches. The AREAs have a prefix "a_", "b_" so that they sort in left-to-right order.

Mostly reasonable rock, although protection may be sparse and grades may be "old school". Paul Cormier and others have established several routes and there's probably space for more.

Recently the "Chinos" have extensively developed the "Lost Boys Area", a short by steep section of cliff on the far right, and they have graciously shared that information on this site. Thanks! (Both for the development and the sharing!)

Amazingly, you can drive to within 20-30 min's walk of the base of the more "popular" climbs, yet the cliff is rather isolated and the chances of finding anyone else there are remote-to-non-existent!

The most "popular" climb on the Main Slab seems to be "October Sundae", which has double bolt anchors for rapping (dbl 60m ropes) on the top 4 raps and then a final rap off a fixed tree anchor. (There used to be two "tree raps", but the rap tree for the 2nd to last rap has fallen over.)

The "New England" website "NEClimbs.com" has a fair photograph with routes, although the photo suffers from a poor route-numbering-"system".

Getting There

The GPS co-ordinates for this AREA are currently set for approximately the base of the climb October Sundae. 

June 2018 update- After the flooding of late Oct 2017, Success Pond Rd is open (it is not maintained for winter) but has some seriously bumpy sections at repaired wash-outs, and is just passable for 2-wheel-drive cars. However, the first 100 yards, or so, of the logging road at 4.7 miles is not passable for anything but high clearance vehicles. 
   It was reported in June 2018 that once beyond this stretch the logging road to the parking area(s) is OK, although the road to the parking for main slab is a bit overgrown. When I was at the washout area in Nov 2017 it looked like a far right side was the best approach, but climbers going in this June (2018) used a far left side route.
    Whether anything will be done to improve this wash out is not known. We'll just have to see what it looks like in the spring. Below is what it looks like now.

   Take Rt 16 north through Gorham and towards Berlin. When approaching Berlin, bear right onto "Truck Route 16". Go past a nice park on the left, through a traffic light and then the landfill will be on your right. Just beyond the landfill, take a right onto Success Pond Road. Go 4.7-4.8 miles and take the right. (here's where the washout is.)  Ignore any road to the right at the intersection and go "straight or bear left". Go about 0.3-0.5 mi and take your 1st right, then about a 1/4 mi. furtther take your 1st left for a total of about 0.9mi. to park. [4-wheel drive with good clearance is obviously better, but unless the first 50 yds is wet-and-muddy you should (?!) be able to make this 0.9Mi with a 2-wheel-drive vehicle; the first 50 yds is the worst, then it gets better.]

The cliff should be visible from the parking.  
Access Road Conditions

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Bald Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
October Sundae
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Fortune Cookies
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream…
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Ingy's Ice Cream
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Meat & Cookies
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Blue Steel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Lost Boys
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Mancation
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
A Rope Runs Through It
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Flying Moose Arete
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Anniversary Route
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
October Sundae 1. Main Slab Area
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Fortune Cookies 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Road North Start to Ingy's… 1. Main Slab Area
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Ingy's Ice Cream 1. Main Slab Area
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Meat & Cookies 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Blue Steel 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lost Boys 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mancation 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
A Rope Runs Through It 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Flying Moose Arete 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Anniversary Route 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Bald Cap »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Jack Dorsey has some more photos and topos here Feb 18, 2016
chinos  
I will post what I have for the far right lost boys area Feb 26, 2016

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