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Areas in North Bald Cap

1. Main Slab Area 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
2. Apron Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3. "Last Call" and "CC Arete" Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
4. " Searching for Gold" Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
5. Lost Boys Area 4 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Elevation: 2,005 ft
GPS: 44.466, -71.069 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Robert Hall on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Description

A very large cliff, 5 or 6 pitches high on the main area(s), although many climbs are only two pitches. The AREAs have a prefix "a_", "b_" so that they sort in left-to-right order.

Mostly reasonable rock, although protection may be sparse and grades may be "old school". Paul Cormier and others have established several routes and there's probably space for more.

Recently the "Chinos" have extensively developed the "Lost Boys Area", a short by steep section of cliff on the far right, and they have graciously shared that information on this site. Thanks! (Both for the development and the sharing!)

Amazingly, you can drive to within 20-30 min's walk of the base of the more "popular" climbs, yet the cliff is rather isolated and the chances of finding anyone else there are remote-to-non-existent!

The most "popular" climb on the Main Slab seems to be "October Sundae", which has double bolt anchors for rapping (dbl 60m ropes) on the top 4 raps and then a final rap off a fixed tree anchor. (There used to be two "tree raps", but the rap tree for the 2nd to last rap has fallen over.)

The "New England" website "NEClimbs.com" has a fair photograph with routes, although the photo suffers from a poor route-numbering-"system".

Getting There

The GPS co-ordinates for this AREA are currently set for approximately the base of the climb October Sundae.

Nov 2017 update- After the flooding of late Oct 2017, Success Pond Rd is open (it is not maintained for winter) but has some seriously bumpy sections at repaired wash-outs, and is just passable for 2-wheel-drive cars. However, the logging road at 4.7 miles is not passable for anything but the highest clearance vehicles. If you want to try it with your truck or high-clearance SUV, use the right-side approach. Whether anything will be done to improve this wash out is not known. We'll just have to see what it looks like in the spring. Below is what it looks like now.


Take Rt 16 north through Gorham and towards Berlin. When approaching Berlin, bear right onto "Truck Route 16". Go past a nice park on the left, through a traffic light and then the landfill will be on your right. Just beyond the landfill, take a right onto Success Pond Road. Go 4.7-4.8 miles and take the right. Ignore any road to the right at the intersection and go "straight or bear left". Go about 0.3-0.5 mi and take your 1st right, then about a 1/4 mi. furtther take your 1st left for a total of about 0.9mi. to park. [4-wheel drive with good clearance is obviously better, but unless the first 50 yds is wet-and-muddy you should (?!) be able to make this 0.9Mi with a 2-wheel-drive vehicle; the first 50 yds is the worst, then it gets better.]

The cliff should be visible from the parking. (photo)

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Bald Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
chinos  
I will post what I have for the far right lost boys area Feb 26, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Jack Dorsey has some more photos and topos here Feb 18, 2016

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