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Areas in North Bald Cap

1. Main Slab Area 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
2. Apron Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3. "Last Call" and "CC Arete" Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
4. " Searching for Gold" Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
5. Lost Boys Area 4 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Elevation: 2,005 ft
GPS: 44.466, -71.069 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,734 total · 391/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

A very large cliff, 5 or 6 pitches high on the main area(s), although many climbs are only two pitches. The AREAs have a prefix "a_", "b_" so that they sort in left-to-right order.

Mostly reasonable rock, although protection may be sparse and grades may be "old school". Paul Cormier and others have established several routes and there's probably space for more.

Recently the "Chinos" have extensively developed the "Lost Boys Area", a short by steep section of cliff on the far right, and they have graciously shared that information on this site. Thanks! (Both for the development and the sharing!)

Amazingly, you can drive to within 20-30 min's walk of the base of the more "popular" climbs, yet the cliff is rather isolated and the chances of finding anyone else there are remote-to-non-existent!

The most "popular" climb on the Main Slab seems to be "October Sundae", which has double bolt anchors, and/or tree(s), for rapping with doubled 60m ropes.  ( The rap tree for the 2nd to last rap has fallen over, but a new tree down lower in the tree island has been slung for rapping.)  See photo labeled "Main Slab Rap Lines" posted in the "Main Slab" area and copied into some of the routes themselves.

The "New England" website "NEClimbs.com" has a fair photograph with routes, although the photo suffers from a poor route-numbering-"system".

Getting There

The GPS co-ordinates for this AREA are currently set for approximately the base of the climb October Sundae. 

2018 update- After the flooding of late Oct 2017, Success Pond Rd is open (it is not maintained for winter) but has some seriously bumpy sections at repaired wash-outs, and is just passable for 2-wheel-drive cars. However, the first 100 yards, or so, of the logging road at 4.7 miles is not passable for anything but high clearance vehicles.  (Just the clearance is req'd, not ncessarily 4-wheel drive)

   
Directions:   Take Rt 16 north through Gorham and towards Berlin. When approaching Berlin, bear right onto "Truck Route 16". Go past a nice park on the left, through a traffic light and past the landfill (on your right.) Just beyond the landfill, take a right onto Success Pond Road. Go 4.7-4.8 miles and take the right. (here's where the washout is.)
 
    Ignore any road to the right at the intersection and go left around the washed-out section, cross over two one-foot diameter metal culverts that stick up quite a bit. Once over the 2nd one the road improves, and within 25-30 yards it is virtually the same as it was before the flooding.   Go about 0.4-0.5 mi to a wide spot and continue "straight", then in about a 1/4 mi. take a right (the right is the "lesser traveled path")  and in another 0.1 mile or so take a left at a "Y" ( going right leads to "Lost Boys Area") for a total of about 0.9mi. to park.

The cliff should be visible from the parking. 

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Bald Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
October Sundae
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Fortune Cookies
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream…
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Ingy's Ice Cream
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
The Road North
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Meat & Cookies
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Blue Steel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Lost Boys
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Mancation
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
A Rope Runs Through It
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Flying Moose Arete
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Anniversary Route
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
October Sundae 1. Main Slab Area
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Fortune Cookies 5. Lost Boys Area
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Road North Start to Ingy's… 1. Main Slab Area
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Ingy's Ice Cream 1. Main Slab Area
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
The Road North 1. Main Slab Area
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Meat & Cookies 5. Lost Boys Area
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Blue Steel 5. Lost Boys Area
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lost Boys 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mancation 5. Lost Boys Area
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
A Rope Runs Through It 5. Lost Boys Area
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Flying Moose Arete 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Anniversary Route 5. Lost Boys Area
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Bald Cap »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Jack Dorsey has some more photos and topos here Feb 18, 2016
chinos  
I will post what I have for the far right lost boys area Feb 26, 2016
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
[Jul 2018] As written above, the start of the access road from Success Pond Rd has some serious "bumps" after washouts. High clearance vehicle is needed. Especially bypassing a big metal pipe sticking out of the ground. You can however drive as far as the wash-out area with a regular front wheel car and park here. It adds an extra mile of easy approach (20min walk). Jul 30, 2018

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