North Bald Cap Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.466, -71.069 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||22,330 total · 417/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Feb 17, 2016|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Mostly reasonable rock, although protection may be sparse and grades may be "old school". Paul Cormier and others have established several routes and there's probably space for more.
Recently the "Chinos" have extensively developed the "Lost Boys Area", a short by steep section of cliff on the far right, and they have graciously shared that information on this site. Thanks! (Both for the development and the sharing!)
Amazingly, you can drive to within 20-30 min's walk of the base of the more "popular" climbs, yet the cliff is rather isolated and the chances of finding anyone else there are remote-to-non-existent!
The most "popular" climb on the Main Slab seems to be "October Sundae", which has double bolt anchors, and/or tree(s), for rapping with doubled 60m ropes. ( The rap tree for the 2nd to last rap has fallen over, but a new tree down lower in the tree island has been slung for rapping.) See photo labeled "Main Slab Rap Lines" posted in the "Main Slab" area and copied into some of the routes themselves.
The "New England" website "NEClimbs.com" has a fair photograph with routes, although the photo suffers from a poor route-numbering-"system".
2020 update- After the flooding of late Oct 2017, Success Pond Rd is open (it is not maintained for winter) but has some seriously bumpy sections at repaired wash-outs, and is just passable for 2-wheel-drive cars. However, the first 100 yards, or so, of the logging road at 4.7 miles is not passable for anything but high clearance vehicles. (Just the clearance is req'd, not ncessarily 4-wheel drive)
Directions: Take Rt 16 north through Gorham and towards Berlin. When approaching Berlin, bear right onto "Truck Route 16". Go past a nice park on the left, through a traffic light and past the landfill (on your right.) Just beyond the landfill, take a right onto Success Pond Road. Go 4.7-4.8 miles and take the right. (here's where the washout is.)
Ignore any road to the right at the intersection and go left around the washed-out section, cross over a one-foot diameter metal culverts that stick up quite a bit. Once over the 2nd one the road improves, and within 25-30 yards it is virtually the same as it was before the flooding. Some brush cutting has occurred so there's now less "brush scratching" of your car. Go about 0.4-0.5 mi to a wide spot and continue "straight", then in about a 1/4 mi. take a right (the right is the "lesser traveled path" and is quite "grassed over" now) and in another 0.1 mile or so take a left at a "Y" ( going right leads to "Lost Boys Area") for a total of about 0.9mi. to park.
The cliff should be visible from the parking.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Bald Cap
Days w Precip