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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 3,711
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Sep 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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A stellar line and area classic. Probably one of the best 10s in the area, if not THE best.


Very first route on the leftmost side of the crag. Would be hard to miss as it's one of the only climbs on the Main Wall thats less than overhung!


6 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Genesis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach to Genesis (May 2013)
BETA PHOTO: The approach to Genesis (May 2013)
Rock Climbing Photo: Genesis (August 2013)
Genesis (August 2013)
Rock Climbing Photo: Allison On-sighting Genesis, 5.10d
Allison On-sighting Genesis, 5.10d

Comments on Genesis Add Comment
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By WSnyder
Oct 25, 2006

One of the best climbs in the canyon regardless of the grade.
By Anthony Stout
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 8, 2006

100% agreed!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 2, 2007

Deidre replaced one of the two shut anchors on 3/31/07 but the other is still worn and needs replacement. This route gets a lot of traffic. Please on this route and all routes - do not run the rope directly through the anchor for toproping or lowering. Use quickdraws for TR and have the last person fish through and rappel.
By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Jun 2, 2007

A Jack's must!
By noburu Irvine
From: Flagstaff
Aug 1, 2007

That darn last corner up top has killed my red-point both times...this're mine!!!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 13, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A quibble with the OP's wording: I would not characterize Genesis as "less than overhung". Maybe "less overhung" was the intent? Regardless, a fine route I find more pumpy than many of the 11s in Jacks.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
May 22, 2012

Needs washing and scrubbing as it's getting slimy. Fun nonetheless.
By collinsclimbing
Sep 20, 2015

I agree. Always fun to get on.
By Charles Yang
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 25, 2017

This is a great route! Lots of jugs on a slight overhung with several rests. Crux was clipping the anchors due to awkward positions in the dihedral.

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