Type: Sport
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton- 11/94
Page Views: 2,103 total · 15/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


76 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Steep start with many well chalked pockets. Climb past two bulges to anchors. Very fun but pumpy!

Location

Shady area just right of a very large dihedral/cove area.

Protection

5 shuts - shut anchor

Photos

Outstanding moderate (for Main Wall). May 7, 2007
...for Main Wall. Which is to say, it's one of the easiest routes on that wall. Moderate is relative. May 17, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
I consider the term "moderate" in climbing to mean "5.9 or easier". :-) But I understand what you're saying, Hillary.

This is a super fun route irregardless! Oct 9, 2007
Andrew R
Arizony
 
Andrew R   Arizony
 
Careful foot placements make the upper crux bulge a breeze.

Watch out for the guano coating most of the first shelf. Oct 20, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a/b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a/b
Haven't been on this route in a while. Blew the sequence at the roof by trying to hand jam and go straight up. I'm confident that would work but not that day. HUNG, then used the standard exit going slightly right.

Also, Deidre claims that there is a critical hold that has broken off. It's had been so long since I'd been on it, I didn't miss it. Then, I did hang so maybe it WAS missed after all?!

Opinions on that? Hold missing, more difficult, urban legend to make us old fat weak people feel better? Jun 9, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Another Jack's route that offers some cool hand jams in key places. I found the hand jam sequence Susan was looking for at the top and it proved an easy flash sequence for me. Short, but great fun! May 31, 2010