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Routes in Main Wall

Axis of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bats in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackened S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bone Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bull in a China Shop S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowgirl Diplomacy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cry Baby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Offspring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Evil Surprise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fluffy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friendly Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Genocide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got Gingko S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hand Job S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haul of Flame S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart Shaped Drill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honed Improvement S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooked On Pockets S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kindest Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kolaric Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Episode S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Limestone Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Morphin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Runt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Monger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Trip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Pasties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Razor Burn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sacrificial Lizard S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Shortest Straw S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
State of Panic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swiss Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
System in Ruins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Take Your Pick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales From the Grypt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Thin, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
This Old Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Total Lack of Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trick Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Twist of Cain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Sister S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Under Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unpopular Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wind Chill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zone of Exclusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton- 11/94
Page Views: 1,965 total, 15/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

Steep start with many well chalked pockets. Climb past two bulges to anchors. Very fun but pumpy!

Location

Shady area just right of a very large dihedral/cove area.

Protection

5 shuts - shut anchor

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Another Jack's route that offers some cool hand jams in key places. I found the hand jam sequence Susan was looking for at the top and it proved an easy flash sequence for me. Short, but great fun! May 31, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Haven't been on this route in a while. Blew the sequence at the roof by trying to hand jam and go straight up. I'm confident that would work but not that day. HUNG, then used the standard exit going slightly right.

Also, Deidre claims that there is a critical hold that has broken off. It's had been so long since I'd been on it, I didn't miss it. Then, I did hang so maybe it WAS missed after all?!

Opinions on that? Hold missing, more difficult, urban legend to make us old fat weak people feel better? Jun 9, 2008
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
 
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
 
Careful foot placements make the upper crux bulge a breeze.

Watch out for the guano coating most of the first shelf. Oct 20, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
I consider the term "moderate" in climbing to mean "5.9 or easier". :-) But I understand what you're saying, Hillary.

This is a super fun route irregardless! Oct 9, 2007
...for Main Wall. Which is to say, it's one of the easiest routes on that wall. Moderate is relative. May 17, 2007
Outstanding moderate (for Main Wall). May 7, 2007