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Routes in Main Wall

Axis of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bats in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackened S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bone Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bull in a China Shop S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowgirl Diplomacy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cry Baby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Offspring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Evil Surprise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fluffy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friendly Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Genocide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got Gingko S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hand Job S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haul of Flame S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart Shaped Drill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honed Improvement S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooked On Pockets S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kindest Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kolaric Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Episode S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Limestone Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Morphin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Runt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Monger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Trip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Pasties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Razor Burn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sacrificial Lizard S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Shortest Straw S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
State of Panic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swiss Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
System in Ruins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Take Your Pick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales From the Grypt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Thin, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
This Old Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Total Lack of Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trick Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Twist of Cain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Sister S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Under Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unpopular Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wind Chill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zone of Exclusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 137 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Start off a large boulder on a nice crimp sidepull. From here make long reaches between chipped pockets, to obtain a resting jug and the third bolt. From here the route stays sustained on thin holds to the anchors.

While this route offers good climbing, the entire bottom is almost all manufactured.

Location

Towards the middle of mainwall. Three routes to the right of Mighty Morphin. Between Crybaby and The Thin Thin.

Protection

5? Bolts to Anchors. Stickclip

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars from me.

If you liked this route, check out Wild Breed on Swiss Wall. Mar 8, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11c
Pablo, don't get me wrong this route is pretty fun, but the dynos are just long moves and not actual dynos, and the climb is short. Let's be real here. It's two stars, maybe three at a stretch.

Still TOTALLY worth doing. Mar 7, 2016
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
  5.12a
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
  5.12a
This comment goes for alot of routes at Jacks actually, this route on here gets 2 starts, but its one of the coolest dyno sport climbs I've done. Three consecutive big deadpoints/lunges to good then worsening holds. The top stays on you as well. I thought it would be over after the dynos and fell on the top section.

Beware of MP stars...this thing is well worth a try or two. Mar 7, 2016

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