Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Axis of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bats in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackened S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bone Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bull in a China Shop S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowgirl Diplomacy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cry Baby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Offspring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Evil Surprise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fluffy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friendly Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Genocide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got Gingko S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hand Job S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haul of Flame S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart Shaped Drill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honed Improvement S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooked On Pockets S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kindest Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kolaric Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Episode S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Limestone Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Morphin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Runt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Monger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Trip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Pasties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Razor Burn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sacrificial Lizard S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Shortest Straw S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
State of Panic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swiss Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
System in Ruins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Take Your Pick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales From the Grypt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Thin, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
This Old Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Total Lack of Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trick Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Twist of Cain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Sister S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Under Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unpopular Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wind Chill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zone of Exclusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pull a difficult awkward start getting out of the streambed and get a OK stance over the roof. Head up on steepening rock on good holds to a big move to a jug. Stick the jug, make a big move right, then enter the tricky dihedral up the final slab. While this final section isn't too hard there aren't many good holds so ignore the building pump and work the footholds to get to the anchors.

Location

On the right side of the Mainwall, just before the streambed moves away from the wall. Second route right of the classic "Under Attack". To the left is "Creative Foreplay" and to the right is "Sweet Dreams" which goes up the arete.

Protection

6 Bolts to Anchors, Consider Stickclipping the second bolt

Photos

- No Photos -
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b/c PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b/c PG13
Very fun route. I can't count how many times I have walked past this route. Super fun Highly suggested.

vimeo.com/26043684 Jul 27, 2011