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Routes in Main Wall

Axis of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bats in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackened S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bone Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bull in a China Shop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cowgirl Diplomacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cry Baby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Offspring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Evil Surprise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fluffy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friendly Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Genocide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got Gingko S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hand Job S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haul of Flame S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart Shaped Drill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honed Improvement S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooked On Pockets S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kindest Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kolaric Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Episode S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lazarus S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Limestone Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Morphin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Runt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Monger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Trip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Pasties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Razor Burn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sacrificial Lizard S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Shortest Straw S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
State of Panic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swiss Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
System in Ruins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Take Your Pick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales From the Grypt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Thin, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
This Old Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Total Lack of Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trick Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Twist of Cain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Under Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unpopular Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wind Chill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zone of Exclusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 4,089 total · 28/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


116 Opinions

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Description

A stellar line and area classic. Probably one of the best 10s in the area, if not THE best.

Location

Very first route on the leftmost side of the crag. Would be hard to miss as it's one of the only climbs on the Main Wall thats less than overhung!

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos

WSnyder  
One of the best climbs in the canyon regardless of the grade. Oct 25, 2006
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10d
100% agreed! Dec 8, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Deidre replaced one of the two shut anchors on 3/31/07 but the other is still worn and needs replacement. This route gets a lot of traffic. Please on this route and all routes - do not run the rope directly through the anchor for toproping or lowering. Use quickdraws for TR and have the last person fish through and rappel. Apr 2, 2007
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
A Jack's must! Jun 2, 2007
Nick Irvine
Flagstaff
Nick Irvine   Flagstaff
That darn last corner up top has killed my red-point both times...this weekend...you're mine!!! Aug 1, 2007
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
A quibble with the OP's wording: I would not characterize Genesis as "less than overhung". Maybe "less overhung" was the intent? Regardless, a fine route I find more pumpy than many of the 11s in Jacks. Jun 13, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Needs washing and scrubbing as it's getting slimy. Fun nonetheless. May 22, 2012
I agree. Always fun to get on. Sep 20, 2015
Charles Yang
Phoenix, AZ
 
Charles Yang   Phoenix, AZ
 
This is a great route! Lots of jugs on a slight overhung with several rests. Crux was clipping the anchors due to awkward positions in the dihedral. Apr 25, 2017

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