Type: Sport
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 4,130 total · 28/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


121 Opinions

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Description

A stellar line and area classic. Probably one of the best 10s in the area, if not THE best.

Location

Very first route on the leftmost side of the crag. Would be hard to miss as it's one of the only climbs on the Main Wall thats less than overhung!

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos

WSnyder  
One of the best climbs in the canyon regardless of the grade. Oct 25, 2006
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10d
100% agreed! Dec 8, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Deidre replaced one of the two shut anchors on 3/31/07 but the other is still worn and needs replacement. This route gets a lot of traffic. Please on this route and all routes - do not run the rope directly through the anchor for toproping or lowering. Use quickdraws for TR and have the last person fish through and rappel. Apr 2, 2007
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
A Jack's must! Jun 2, 2007
Nick Irvine
Flagstaff
Nick Irvine   Flagstaff
That darn last corner up top has killed my red-point both times...this weekend...you're mine!!! Aug 1, 2007
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
A quibble with the OP's wording: I would not characterize Genesis as "less than overhung". Maybe "less overhung" was the intent? Regardless, a fine route I find more pumpy than many of the 11s in Jacks. Jun 13, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Needs washing and scrubbing as it's getting slimy. Fun nonetheless. May 22, 2012
I agree. Always fun to get on. Sep 20, 2015
Charles Yang
Phoenix, AZ
 
Charles Yang   Phoenix, AZ
 
This is a great route! Lots of jugs on a slight overhung with several rests. Crux was clipping the anchors due to awkward positions in the dihedral. Apr 25, 2017