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Routes in Main Wall

Axis of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bats in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackened S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bone Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bull in a China Shop S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowgirl Diplomacy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cry Baby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Offspring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Evil Surprise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fluffy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friendly Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Genocide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got Gingko S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hand Job S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haul of Flame S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart Shaped Drill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honed Improvement S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooked On Pockets S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kindest Cut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kolaric Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Episode S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Limestone Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Morphin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Runt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Monger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Trip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Pasties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Razor Burn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sacrificial Lizard S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Shortest Straw S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
State of Panic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swiss Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
System in Ruins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Take Your Pick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales From the Grypt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Thin, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
This Old Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Total Lack of Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trick Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Twist of Cain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Sister S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Under Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unpopular Mechanics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wind Chill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zone of Exclusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 2,464 total, 19/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on May 29, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

Hard start, especially for short people! Use a cheater stone (if need be). I inadvertently stressed my arm for the second clip BECAUSE I did not see a small, positive clipping hold. Look for a small pocket to clip from up and slightly left of the second bolt (maybe 50 cm). The rest of the climb is a fun cruiser (although, watch your pump).

Location

Two climbs to the right of the popular "Sacrificial Lizard" on the Main Wall.

Protection

Well bolted to the extent of being over-bolted, but that's ok.

Photos

Pretty fun route and a little bit of everything. Nov 27, 2014
BenClimbing
  5.11b/c
BenClimbing  
  5.11b/c
"If the route cont......A man can dream...." Amen to that.
BTW, I don't think this route (or any at Jacks for that matter) is anywhere near 85'. Dec 14, 2009
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
  5.11c
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
  5.11c
"if the route continued to bulge out at the same rate at the lower half..." Jacks might have a genuinely world-class, classic route. A man can dream...

Alright, so the upper section isn't really a slog, it's nice to get the air under your feet and more mileage than most routes at Jacks. But after the start it does feel a bit inconsequential. Jan 29, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
At 5'7" I could clip the first bolt from the ground and pull off (to my amazement) the bouldery start. I used the pocket high of the 2nd bolt to clip from which must have been the ticket. Large pockets, steep rock (not in that order) makes for some great climbing.

Personally I enjoyed the vertical upper section. One persons "slog" anothers "Thank God!". Face it if the route continued to bulge out at the same rate at the lower half we'd have to get a film crew and Sharma out to on-site it.

I think it goes 9 bolts to shut anchors. The lower section is somewhat difficult to clean yourself so encourage your belayer to give it a shot! Oct 13, 2008
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
  5.11c
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
  5.11c
Steep, bouldery, sustained, and crazy fun until about the fifth bolt, where it becomes 5.9 face for the last 45 feet. Still, the incredible lower section is worth the slog to the anchors. Oct 20, 2007
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
A really nice climb. The start was difficult as I am 5'5". Jason could clip the 1st bolt from the ground. A stick clip might have been nice to clip the 2nd bolt. The upper section of the climb is not as hard as the lower section. Jun 2, 2007