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Elevation: 9,119 ft 2,779 m
GPS: 39.52255, -105.38738
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,425 total · 516/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Page Updates (admin only)
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Located on the N.E. corner of the park, this area hosts a couple of crags worth exploring. Please note that some of the formations in this area are off-limits due to their being in a closed, sensitive area. The sensitive area designation is in place to protect a rare species of plant called the Weber's Monkey flower.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Lazy V Lot: Take the Lazy trail to the Service Road, then go left toward the Old Mill trail.  Turn right on the Old Mill trail and follow it for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

If the Lazy V parking lot is full, you will need to park at the Meadow parking lot.

From the Meadow Lot (near the park entrance): Follow Staunton Ranch trail for approximately 2.2 miles to the intersection with Old Mill trail. Old Mill trail is hiker only, so leave your bike here if you brought it. Hike up Old Mill for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

106 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Old Mill Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Mill Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 51
● Wonkavator
Sport 2 pitches
Black Creek Wall > E Wonka's Alcove
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 57
● Black Hole Sun
Sport 2 pitches
Black Creek Wall > D. The Badlands
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 129
● Rosewood
Sport
Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
● Ruffian Arete
Sport
Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 52
● Crane Technique
Sport
Sawmill Crag > 1. Sawmill W Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
● Chop Suey Slab
Sport
Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
● Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch
Sport
Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 47
● Shrouded Face
Sport
Black Creek Wall > B. Howling Buttress
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
● Guillotine
Trad 2 pitches
Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
● Iliad
Trad
Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
● Sawing Logs
Sport
Sawmill Crag > 4. Sawmill Upper N Side
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 25
● The Singularity
Sport
Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 26
● The Event Horizon
Sport
Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 16
● Worm Hole
Sport
Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 14
● White Dwarf
Sport
Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Wonkavator Black Creek Wall > E Wonka's Alcove
 51
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Black Hole Sun Black Creek Wall > D. The Badlands
 57
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Rosewood Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
 129
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Ruffian Arete Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Crane Technique Sawmill Crag > 1. Sawmill W Buttress
 52
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Chop Suey Slab Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Shrouded Face Black Creek Wall > B. Howling Buttress
 47
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Guillotine Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
● Iliad Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
● Sawing Logs Sawmill Crag > 4. Sawmill Upper N Side
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● The Singularity Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 25
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● The Event Horizon Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 26
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
● Worm Hole Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 16
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● White Dwarf Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 14
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Old Mill Area »

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Photos

A different angle showing the Roughneck Wall/Wildcatter in the middle (look for the ramp separating the two) and Sawmill/Black Creek Wall bottom right.
A different angle showing the Roughneck Wall/Wi…
 3
A rough overview of the current climbing areas within the Old Mill Area.
A rough overview of the current climbing areas…
 2

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