All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area

Peach Palace Climbing

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Elevation:	9,531 ft	2,905 m
GPS:	39.52628, -105.38787 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	764 total · 14/month
Shared By:	tbol on Jun 18, 2020
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Peach Palace is an amazing toprope zone. It has a well hidden corridor with a lot of potential for routes. A 70 meter rope is required. An 80m would be even better depending on your anchor, etc.

Around the time Staunton opened, I found this spot and took a few friends there. We toproped and cleaned (didn't need much) about a half dozen routes. I was going to apply to bolt them, but since the crag doesn't pass an established trail, I kind of wrote it off. It is the same thing considering the sensitive nature of the now closed, protected area. Lately though, I've been dreaming of this spot and how wonderful it was.

Perhaps this will be a legit crag some day. Or, perhaps not everything needs to be bolted, which is kind of why I'm posting it. It should probably remain in its natural state. Some day, there will be no unclimbed rocks, or places unspoiled by man. As much fun as doing new routes can be, that thought makes me sad.

Routes L -> R

Peach Fuzz (11-) *beta photo*.
Peachy (5.9 gear/mixed variation for 2nd half).
Peaches and Dreams (10).
Peaches and Screams (11/11+).
Peaches From the Black Lagoon (10).

Getting There

That's the fun part. Until there is a trail, you're on your own. Have an adventure, but tread lightly, and be respectful of local flora and fauna. This may be in the now protected area, in which case it is off limits. Do your research, and be a good steward.