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sean patrick > Ticks Export CSV · RSS Feed of Ticks

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 44 ● The Twins Right Nov 18, 2023 · TR. Tough. Crux is by the 4th bolt. Runout above that. Got it clean. 2nd try overall. Need to lead it. Go left at high flake for easier topout. Anchors are thin. Sport 3. Piedmont Region > Rocky Face Recr… > Section 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 341 ● Flutterby Blue Nov 13, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Stick clip second bolt from ground. If you blow the first moves may hit ground and belayer. Can start 3 ways. I started on left side using stems. Crux was clipping 4th bolt. Too high for me. Would be much easier following. Runout and exposed to chains. Jugs all the way. A full value 5.9. Very chalky. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 418 ● A-Beano Nov 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Thought this was much easier than CH4. More vertical. Enjoyable romp! Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 568 ● CH4 Nov 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Tricky! Tough the whole way. Not obvious what to do… no Bueno. Weird start. Very slick. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 122 ● Slabalito Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Gracie went first. I followed. She said it’s tough, overhanging and crimpy. Did not enjoy. Tough for the grade and not very fun. Short and Pumpy! Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Practice Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 185 ● Basilisk Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Very strange route. Maybe 5.7 if you know the beta. I found it tricky and dirty. Worth doing once. At the end of the wall before you turn the corner. Tech moves. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 182 ● Coprolite Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Not the best. Interesting moves to a tricky and dirty mantle. Clipping the chains was a chore. Was pretty dirty. Very different than other end of the wall. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 215 ● Watering Hole Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Stick clip from ledge. Tough pulls at start. Upper ledge is dirty. Clip and get undercling rest. Go left from there to good pockets. High LH. Find RH then straight up LH to crimp ledge. Don’t get suckered right. I clipped from horn then rested again before punching thru top. Overhung. Tough but doable! Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 419 ● Ryanosaurus Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Stick clip from the ledge. Then start straight up thru edges and knobs. Crux is pulling past weird pocket thing in the middle. Mussy hooks anchor. Very fun and juggy with good rests. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 533 ● Prehistoric Extermination Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Incredible route! 5 stars. Stick clip. Techy start to ledge. Look for knobs. All the clips are there. Jugs and good rests. Worth the hike to the wall for this one. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 25 ● Short Stack Oct 7, 2023 · TR. Onsight. Crux is like the 3rd move. Dirty. High foot to an ok corner. Fine. Short. TR 3. Piedmont Region > Rocky Face Recr… > Section 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 307 ● The Prow Sep 24, 2023 · Follow. Followed Wes up on our Linville triple day. Very cool route. The first 2 pitches seem doable. The 3rd pitch is wild. 2 pieces of gear on the corner. Then up to a ledge. 4 pitch is weird. Monkey bar traverse to a crawl to a tough corner exit. Not a ton of pro. Turning the corner was wild!!! Trad 4 pitches 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 323 ● The Mummy Sep 23, 2023 · Follow. Followed Wes on the Linville triple. Rappelled down gully to get to the base after the Daddy. Linked pitch 1 and 2. Easier than the Daddy with mild exposure. Crux in the middle on sharp steep rock. Top was fun and easy. Beginning was cool. Trad 3 pitches 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 402 ● The Daddy Sep 23, 2023 · Follow. 1 hour hike to the base down the approach gully. Followed all 5 pitches with Wes leading quickly. Serious exposure on 2 pitches. Runout in parts. Cool route but all gear for lead and anchors. Tough approach and exit. Trad 5 pitches 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 48 ● Hole Lotta Fun Sep 19, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. First bolted section was fantastic. Got to crack and placed a totem and .4 cam in crack. Got scared and came down. Above cams was a ledge and high bolt. Next time. Trad Northern Arizona > … 1 > Chimney Rock Area > Fun Ship
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 54 ● Fun With Social Distancing Sep 19, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Tough move getting off the ground. Stick clip. Easy going from there to crux. There is a bolt there which helps. Weird mantle move. There is a 15 foot runout to anchors. Over easy slab ground with holes. Quick clip anchors. Heady climb for me. Sport Northern Arizona > … 1 > Chimney Rock Area > Fun Ship
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 14 ● Fun Approach Sep 19, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Wild route. 15 foot runout to first bolt over easy ground. Then 30 foot runout over easy slab to limestone wall. Used a BD red 1 and green .75 in the vertical crack. You would still hit slab. Then 3-4 bolts to anchors. Last few moves are unprotected traverse. Fun but heady. Sport Northern Arizona > … 1 > Chimney Rock Area > Fun Ship
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 5 ● Treat Yo' Self to Fun Sep 19, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Tricky to get to. Hike up slot canyon or wash to base. First 4 bolts are spaced out over easy ground. Top 3 bolts are much tougher. Found jug out right to clip last bolt with. Ran out of gas trying to figure out last moves to anchor. Slabby finish. Exposure on the whole route! Rocks come down while lowering. Gracie walked up it. Sport Northern Arizona > … 1 > Chimney Rock Area > Fun Ship
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 61 ● Treehugger Jun 2, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. crux is getting up the tree and getting established on the face. stick clip. easy fun climbing from there. No anchors at top. Either trend left to Footloose anchors (runout) or bring a sling for the tree at top (also runout). Sport Lower Leda
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 79 ● Gigantic Jun 2, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. incredible route. tall and exposed. all the jugs are there. high first bolt, cant clip. stay right of the bolts for easier ground. first route you come to from the steep access trail. Sport, TR Lower Leda
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 28 ● Cryptic Jun 2, 2023 · Lead / Flash. stick clip. A few slippery moves down low. Crux at 3rd bolt. LH to jug, clip from there. Bring feet to hidden ledge. RH up to rail - good hold out right. Bring up foot and then LH goes to corner, bump to further corner and then grab knob. All jugs from there to top. Sport Lower Leda
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 172 ● International Route of Pancakes Nov 13, 2016 · Onsight lead. Crux is first bouldery move. Hidden LH up high around corner. Bring sling or long draw for funky vertical chain anchors. Rappel down. Sport Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Hideout
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 75 ● Dancing with the Pope Jun 18, 2016 · Flash ascent on lead. Great climbing down low leads to an awkward transition to a vertical crack. Then things get thin and balancey. Crux for me was moving to the anchors. Well bolted route. Climbs hard for the grade! Sport 2. Northern Mou… > Dump > Dump aka Warpin & Dor…
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 118 ● Is This How You Clip? AKA: Doug… Jun 8, 2009 · Lead / Flash. Followed a ASU friend up it who hung the draws and talked me thru it. Easier start is directly under the first bolt. Some serious slab fall potential around 2 and 3 bolt. Clip anchors from lower position. Sport, TR 2. Northern Mou… > Dump > Dump aka Warpin & Dor…

● The Twins Right

3. Piedmont Region > Rocky Face Recr… > Section 2

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

Nov 18, 2023 · TR. Tough. Crux is by the 4th bolt. Runout above that. Got it clean. 2nd try overall. Need to lead it. Go left at high flake for easier topout. Anchors are thin.

● Flutterby Blue

Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall

341

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Nov 13, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Stick clip second bolt from ground. If you blow the first moves may hit ground and belayer. Can start 3 ways. I started on left side using stems. Crux was clipping 4th bolt. Too high for me. Would be much easier following. Runout and exposed to chains. Jugs all the way. A full value 5.9. Very chalky.

● A-Beano

Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall

418

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

Nov 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Thought this was much easier than CH4. More vertical. Enjoyable romp!

● CH4

Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall

568

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

Nov 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Tricky! Tough the whole way. Not obvious what to do… no Bueno. Weird start. Very slick.

● Slabalito

Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Practice Wall

122

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Gracie went first. I followed. She said it’s tough, overhanging and crimpy. Did not enjoy. Tough for the grade and not very fun. Short and Pumpy!

● Basilisk