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Rats Peak Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Rats Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Biggie Cheese S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dirty Stinkin' Rats S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Little White Mice S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Master Splinter V3+ 6A+
	Muskrat Ramble S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pinky and the Bro TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rat Arete S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rat Proof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rat Race S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rat-atouille TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rathskeller V1+ 5
	Squirmin' Vermin S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	7,527 ft	2,294 m
GPS:	35.72624, -105.88802 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,640 total · 47/month
Shared By:	James Olsen on Apr 21, 2022
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Partly shaded climbs on solid felsic gneiss ortho-conglomerate. The crag is about 50' tall and most climbs are around 45' long. You can walk around the backside to setup top-ropes from the top.

For over two decades, the named routes here were TR-only. In May 2024, Jim Olsen collaborated with the Santa Fe County Open Space division to agree to allow the routes to be equipped for leading. Except for two top-rope routes, all routes, including three new routes, are now fully bolted for lead climbing. The three new routes are "Rat Proof" (5.11b) between "Rat Arete" and "Rat Race", Squrmin' Vermin and the three-bolt "Biggie Cheese" 5.6 on the far right of the Rugrats Ridge.

There is a lower ridge called Rugrats Ridge extending south from the east side of the crag. If you have a little trad gear you can setup short kid beginners 5.1 - 5.3 climbs here. These are the closest climbs to downtown Santa Fe.

Getting There

Starting at the plaza in Santa Fe, head north on Washington Avenue. As you pass the large pink Scottish Rite Temple on the left, Washington Avenue becomes Bishops Lodge Road. From Bishops Lodge Road turn right on Artist Road, which soon becomes Hyde Park Road. In about four miles you will pass 10,000 waves, a large spa on your left and shortly top the hill you have been climbing. After you start to descend you will drive through a sharp bend in the road called Nun's Corner and descend to an inconspicuous bridge across Tesuque Creek. Park on the right, just past the bridge. Walk across the road and follow the path to the left. After about 600' you arrive at Rats Peak.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rats Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 11 ● Muskrat Ramble Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 8 ● Squirmin' Vermin Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 10 ● Rat Race Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 10 ● Rat Arete Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 5 ● Rat Proof Sport